“nothing really helps in those deep shade spots under trees”
That’s the story of my life with the back building—moss city under those old oaks. Zinc strips helped a bit, but I swear, the squirrels seem to move them around. Those hose-on sprays are a decent compromise, though. I’ll take less ladder time any day, especially after last year’s slip... not fun.
- Been there with the deep shade—our north side is a moss magnet, especially after a wet spring.
- Tried zinc strips too, but I swear the critters treat them like jungle gyms. Never found one where I left it after a month.
- Hose-on sprays are way less hassle, but I noticed you have to hit it every year or two or the green comes right back. Not sure if that’s just our humid summers or what.
- One thing that helped a bit: I trimmed up the lower branches to let in more light. Didn’t solve it, but slowed the moss down some.
- For what it’s worth, I tried scrubbing with a broom on an extension pole—awkward as heck, but got some of the worst patches off without climbing up there. Not perfect, but I’ll take it over another ladder tumble any day.
- If you’re dealing with Atlas shingles, just double-check what chemicals are safe—some sprays can mess with the granules over time (learned that the hard way on my shed roof).
- Honestly, I’ve just accepted a little moss in the shadiest spots. As long as it’s not lifting shingles or causing leaks, I figure it’s mostly cosmetic... and kind of blends in with the trees anyway.
Not sure there’s a magic fix for deep shade, but every little bit helps.
Yeah, deep shade is a real headache for moss and algae. I’ve got the same issue on the north side—seems like no matter what I do, it’s always a little green by mid-summer. I tried the zinc strips too, but honestly, between squirrels and wind, they just don’t stay put. Hose-on treatments are decent for a quick fix, but like you said, it’s an ongoing thing. For me, it’s definitely worse after a humid stretch.
One thing I’d add: if you’re using any kind of cleaner on Atlas shingles, double-check the label for compatibility. Some of those “roof wash” products have sodium hypochlorite or other stuff that’ll eat away at the granules over time. I learned that after noticing bare spots on an old section—turns out not all asphalt shingles are created equal when it comes to chemical resistance.
I trimmed back branches too, just to get a bit more airflow and sunlight. Didn’t eliminate the problem, but it slowed things down enough that I only need to clean every couple years now. At this point, unless it’s actually damaging the roof or causing leaks, I just let some of it go. Not worth stressing over every patch of moss if it’s not hurting anything.
At this point, unless it’s actually damaging the roof or causing leaks, I just let some of it go. Not worth stressing over every patch of moss if it’s not hurting anything.
That’s pretty much where I landed too. I used to obsess over every green patch, but after a few years managing a bunch of older buildings, I realized it’s just part of the deal—especially on shaded sides. Trimming branches helped me a bit as well, but like you said, it’s never perfect. As long as there’s no damage or leaks, sometimes you just have to pick your battles.
Funny how much time folks spend worrying about a little green on the roof. I’ve seen plenty of houses with some moss or algae, especially up here in the Northwest where it’s always damp. Most of the time, unless it’s thick enough to lift shingles or you’re seeing water get in, it’s just cosmetic. I used to get calls from people panicking over a bit of discoloration, but honestly, I’ve seen 30-year-old roofs with patches of moss still holding up fine. Trimming trees and letting the sun hit the roof helps, but you’re right—it’s never spotless. Sometimes you just gotta let nature do its thing.