Did you know Tamko started out making roofing in a chicken coop?

Had a similar experience with “eco” underlayment - looked promising, but after two Texas summers it curled up like a potato chip. I want to go green, but not if it means patching leaks every year. Maybe someone will crack the code soon...

That “eco” stuff really does sound great on paper, but man, Texas sun will chew up anything that isn’t tough as nails. I tried a recycled underlayment a few years back - figured it’d be better for the planet and maybe keep the attic a bit cooler. Didn’t even make it through the second summer before it started peeling up at the edges. Ended up with a couple of leaks right over the kitchen, which was just awesome.

I get wanting to go green, but I’m not about to redo half my roof every year. For now, I’m sticking with the tried-and-true materials until someone comes out with something that can actually handle the heat down here. Maybe in a few more years they’ll figure it out, but for now I’ll take boring and reliable over “eco” that can’t hack it. Just not worth the hassle or the extra cost for me.

I get wanting to go green, but I’m not about to redo half my roof every year.

Totally get where you’re coming from. Here’s how I tend to approach it: 1) Check the warranty on any new material - some of those “eco” brands look good, but their heat ratings are buried in the fine print. 2) Ask local installers what actually holds up in our climate. I tried a “cool roof” paint once and it flaked off after two summers, so that was a bust. For now, I stick with stuff that’s proven itself in Texas sun. Maybe down the line they’ll figure out something better, but like you said, leaks aren’t worth it.

- If it’s not rated for our heat, I don’t even consider it.
- Tried a “green” shingle once - looked great for about six months, then started curling.
- Always check what the warranty actually covers, not just years but what kind of damage.
- Local crews know what survives sun and storms here. I ask around before trying something new.
- Not worth risking leaks or constant repairs just to be trendy... function first, always.

Not worth risking leaks or constant repairs just to be trendy... function first, always.

Couldn’t agree more. I’ve seen too many folks get burned chasing the latest “eco” shingle or whatever’s hot on the market, only to end up with warped or cracked roofs after one brutal summer. Around here, if it doesn’t hold up to hail and 100+ temps, it’s just not worth the gamble. Local crews really do know best - sometimes the old-school stuff outlasts all the fancy upgrades.

A buddy of mine swapped out his whole roof for some “next gen” composite shingles a couple years back - looked great at first, but after our last hailstorm, half of them ended up cracked or curling at the edges. Meanwhile, my old asphalt three-tabs are still holding on, just need the occasional patch. It’s tempting to try new stuff when all the marketing says it’s longer-lasting or more eco-friendly, but I swear, the tried-and-true materials seem to handle our weather swings better.

I’m curious if anyone here has actually had good luck with any of those newer shingle types in a harsh climate? Or is it mostly hype and warranty loopholes? I keep hearing about synthetic underlayments too - supposedly more durable than felt, but I’m not convinced yet. Anyone actually torn off a roof with one of those after 10+ years and seen how it holds up?

- Seen a lot of those “next gen” shingles on jobs lately. Some hold up, some don’t - seems to depend on the brand and install.
- Torn off a couple roofs with synthetic underlayment after 10+ years. Usually still looks decent, but not always as perfect as the ads claim.
- Old-school felt can be rough if it gets wet, but synthetic sometimes gets brittle over time - especially with big temp swings.
- I’m still waiting to see one of these “lifetime” roofs actually make it to retirement age... marketing sure loves to stretch that word.

- Those “lifetime” roofs always crack me up - seen plenty that barely made it past their first decade, let alone a lifetime.
- Synthetic underlayment’s a mixed bag for me. Looks great at first, but I’ve pulled up some that turned brittle and tore like tissue after a few years of hot/cold cycles.
- Felt’s not perfect either, but at least you know what you’re getting. If it gets soaked, it’s toast, but sometimes it still outlasts the fancy stuff.
- Install makes a huge difference. Seen cheap shingles last longer than premium ones just because someone actually cared during install... go figure.
- Marketing folks must have a different definition of “lifetime” than the rest of us.

Install makes a huge difference. Seen cheap shingles last longer than premium ones just because someone actually cared during install... go figure.

That’s the truth - seen it myself plenty of times. Curious if anyone here has had luck with those newer “breathable” synthetic underlayments? I’ve only tried them on a couple jobs, and honestly, I’m not sure they’re holding up any better than the old-school felt. Maybe it’s just our wild Midwest temperature swings, but I keep seeing premature wear. Anyone else seeing that, or is it just me?

I’ve wondered the same thing about those synthetics. I went with a “breathable” underlayment on my garage last year, mostly because the contractor swore it was worth the extra cost. Honestly, I can’t say I notice any difference compared to the old felt on my main house. Both seem to get a little brittle after a couple years, especially after our freeze-thaw cycles. Maybe it’s just our weather here in Nebraska, but I’m not convinced it’s worth paying more.

Has anyone actually seen a noticeable benefit from synthetic underlayments in terms of moisture or heat? Or is it just marketing? I keep hearing about “better ventilation” but if your attic isn’t vented right, does the underlayment even matter that much? Just trying to figure out if it’s worth spending more next time or if I should stick with what’s worked for decades.

I hear you on the Nebraska weather - those freeze-thaw cycles are brutal on just about everything. I’ve managed a few properties with both felt and synthetic underlayments, and honestly, unless you’ve got a serious ventilation issue or a really low-slope roof, I haven’t seen a huge difference in day-to-day performance. The synthetics are lighter and easier for crews to install, but as far as moisture or heat inside? If your attic isn’t vented right, like you said, it’s kind of a moot point. I’d say if your old-school felt has held up for decades, there’s no harm sticking with it unless your roofer gives you a solid reason otherwise.

That chicken coop story cracks me up every time - hard to picture a big name like Tamko starting out with a bunch of hens for company. Nebraska weather really does put everything to the test, though. I’ve had roofs where the felt looked like it’d been through a war after just a couple winters, and others where it held up way longer than I expected.

I’m with you on the underlayment debate. I tried synthetic on a duplex last year because the crew swore it’d go faster and be less hassle. It was lighter, sure, but honestly, once the shingles were down, I couldn’t tell much difference from the old felt jobs. The only time I regretted not going synthetic was when we had a week of rain mid-project and the felt got soggy - synthetic would’ve handled that better.

Ventilation’s still the real headache. Had one attic that turned into a sauna every summer, and no underlayment in the world was gonna fix that mess. If your felt’s lasted this long, I’d say keep rolling with it unless you’re itching to try something new or your roofer’s got a good reason.

Ventilation’s still the real headache. Had one attic that turned into a sauna every summer, and no underlayment in the world was gonna fix that mess.

That’s exactly what I’m worried about with my place. The attic gets crazy hot, and I’m not convinced just swapping underlayment would help much either. Did you end up adding more vents or changing the insulation? I’ve read mixed things about ridge vents vs. powered fans, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Curious what actually made a difference for you.

Honestly, I see a lot of folks jump to powered fans thinking they’ll solve everything, but they can actually pull conditioned air from your house if you’re not careful - makes your AC work harder. What’s worked best for most of my clients is a combo: solid soffit intake and a ridge vent for passive flow. If your insulation’s thin or patchy, that’s worth fixing too. Sometimes people overlook blocked soffit vents from old insulation - happens more than you’d think. Powered fans are kinda my last resort unless the roof design leaves no other option.

- Powered attic fans get a lot of hype, but honestly, I’ve seen more issues than solutions when folks install them without thinking through the whole system.
- If you don’t have enough soffit venting - or if it’s blocked by insulation - those fans can end up pulling cool air right out of your living space. Seen it spike energy bills more than once.
- Ridge vent + clear soffits is usually the best passive combo. It’s not flashy, but it works with how hot air naturally wants to rise and escape.
- Insulation is a big deal too. I’ve poked my head into attics where blown-in insulation completely covered the soffit vents... zero airflow. Easy fix, but often missed.
- Only time I’d say powered fans make sense is on weird rooflines or hip roofs where you just can’t get enough passive flow.
- Quick story: inspected a place last summer, homeowner swore the powered fan would “fix everything.” Instead, their upstairs was hotter and the AC ran non-stop. Pulled back some insulation and found every soffit vent clogged. Once we cleared those, things cooled off fast - fan wasn’t even needed.

Bottom line: more moving parts isn’t always better. Sometimes old-school passive works best if you set it up right.

Bottom line: more moving parts isn’t always better. Sometimes old-school passive works best if you set it up right.

I learned this the hard way last summer. Tried to “upgrade” with a powered attic fan, but my soffit vents were half-blocked by insulation and I didn’t even realize. AC bill shot up and the house felt stuffier. Ended up pulling back the insulation, adding those little foam baffles, and just sticking with ridge + soffit vents. Cheaper, quieter, and honestly, it works fine. If you’re on a budget, I’d double-check airflow before buying any gadgets.

I get where you’re coming from with passive ventilation - honestly, it’s hard to beat for simplicity and cost. But I do wonder if powered fans ever make sense, especially after major storms or when you’ve got roof damage and need to dry things out fast. Ever seen a situation where passive just couldn’t keep up, like after heavy rain or hail? I’ve run into a couple of attic mold jobs where the ridge and soffit setup wasn’t enough, mostly because the roof pitch was low and the vents were undersized for the attic volume.

Curious too - did you notice any difference in shingle life or attic temps once you switched back? I’ve heard mixed things. Some folks swear powered fans can actually pull conditioned air from the house if the attic’s not sealed tight, which kind of defeats the purpose. But then again, in crazy humid places, sometimes you need a little extra help moving air. Maybe it’s just about matching the system to the house, not a one-size-fits-all deal.

Funny you mention attic mold - I’ve seen a couple of those jobs where the passive setup just couldn’t keep up, especially in older houses with low-pitch roofs. After one gnarly summer storm, the humidity in my attic was off the charts. I tried letting the ridge and soffit vents do their thing, but ended up borrowing a powered fan for a week just to get things back under control. Didn’t notice any shingle wear from that short stint, but I’d worry about long-term use pulling AC out of the house if there’s any gaps in the ceiling. Guess it really does depend on how tight your attic is sealed and how much airflow you actually need. Sometimes “set it and forget it” isn’t enough, especially down here in the swampy South...

That’s wild about the humidity spike after the storm. I ran into something similar last year - old 1950s ranch, barely any pitch, and the original insulation was basically dust. The passive vents just couldn’t keep up once we hit that stretch of muggy weather. I tried to tough it out, but ended up tossing a box fan up there for a few days just to dry things out. Didn’t see any shingle issues either, but I kept checking for hot spots or curling just in case.

I get what you mean about pulling AC up if the attic isn’t sealed tight. Found a couple spots where recessed lights weren’t air-sealed and you could actually feel cool air moving up. Makes me wonder how many people are unknowingly cooling their attics half the summer… Sometimes it feels like you can do everything “by the book” and still run into problems, especially with these older houses down here. Passive setups work in theory, but real life is messier.

That’s the thing with these old houses - passive venting just isn’t enough once you get a real humidity spike. I’ve seen so many attics where the insulation’s basically nonexistent, and you’re right, all those little gaps around lights and chases just siphon off your cooled air. People underestimate how much energy loss happens up there. I’m a big advocate for air-sealing before even thinking about more insulation or venting. Passive systems sound great on paper, but unless everything’s tight, you’re just fighting a losing battle. Sometimes I think the “by the book” approach needs a serious update for these older builds.