Trying to pick a shingle that won’t cook my attic - Malarkey worth it?

We’ve got a few properties in the Austin area, and I’ve had Malarkey Highlander NEX “cool roof” shingles on one of them for about three years now. The attic temp difference was noticeable - maybe 10-15 degrees cooler on the worst days compared to the old dark 3-tabs. AC didn’t run quite as hard, but I wouldn’t say it slashed the bill in half or anything. Still, every bit helps when it’s 105 outside.

Color-wise, you don’t have to go full-on white to get some reflectivity benefit. We went with a medium gray (HOA drama, you know how it is), and it still qualified for the “cool roof” rating. The lighter the better, but even the darker “cool” options are better than standard black.

Durability’s been solid so far - no granule loss or algae issues yet, and they survived a couple of nasty hailstorms last spring without any repairs needed. I will say, installation quality matters a ton. One property with a rushed install had edge shingles lift in high winds, so pick your roofer carefully.

If I had to do it again, I’d probably stick with Malarkey or look at CertainTeed’s Solaris line. Both seem to balance looks and performance pretty well for our climate.

“I will say, installation quality matters a ton. One property with a rushed install had edge shingles lift in high winds, so pick your roofer carefully.”

That part really rings true for me. We had a “budget” crew do our last roof (not Malarkey, but similar cool-rated shingles) and the corners started peeling up after the first big windstorm. Ended up paying more to have it fixed than if I’d just gone with the reputable installer in the first place. Lesson learned.

I’m curious - did you notice any difference in attic humidity after switching to the cool roof shingles? Our old dark roof used to make the attic feel like a sauna, and I swear it even made the upstairs feel muggy. After we swapped to lighter shingles, it wasn’t just cooler, but the air felt less heavy somehow. Maybe it’s just better ventilation, but I always wondered if the shingle color played a part.

Also, how’s the noise during hail? Ours got pretty loud with the new shingles, but maybe that’s just the pitch of our roof.

“Our old dark roof used to make the attic feel like a sauna, and I swear it even made the upstairs feel muggy. After we swapped to lighter shingles, it wasn’t just cooler, but the air felt less heavy somehow.”

That’s funny, I had almost the same experience after switching from dark asphalt to a lighter “cool” shingle (not Malarkey, but similar). The attic temp dropped a good 10 degrees on sunny days, and I noticed the upstairs AC didn’t have to work as hard. I do think color makes a difference - maybe not as much as adding vents or fans, but it’s definitely noticeable. Humidity-wise, ours felt less swampy too. Could be better airflow or just less heat radiating down.

On hail noise - yeah, that’s a thing. My new roof is noticeably louder in heavy rain and hail than the old one was. I chalked it up to the steeper pitch and maybe thinner decking? Not sure if shingle type plays into it much unless you go with something like metal, which is a whole other level of noise. Anyone else get used to the “roof drum” after a while? It still startles me sometimes...

I get what you’re saying about lighter shingles making a difference, but I’m not totally convinced it’s always as dramatic as folks hope. We swapped out our old dark three-tabs for a mid-tone architectural shingle (not Malarkey, but similar “cool” rating), and honestly, the attic temp only dropped a few degrees. Maybe it’s our insulation or the fact that we’ve got a ton of trees shading the roof, but I didn’t see the big drop some people mention. The AC still runs pretty hard in July and August. I’m starting to think attic ventilation and insulation matter more than shingle color, at least in my case.

On the noise thing - yeah, the “roof drum” is real. Our new roof is definitely louder in storms, but I always figured it was because we went with a heavier shingle and had to replace some of the old decking with thinner plywood. I’ve heard some folks say Malarkey is quieter because it’s thicker, but I haven’t tried it myself. Metal roofs are a whole different animal - my cousin has one and says hail sounds like someone’s throwing rocks at the house.

One thing I wish we’d done differently is pay more attention to attic airflow. We added a ridge vent after the fact, and that seemed to help more than the shingle swap did. If you’re worried about cooking your attic, maybe focus on vents and insulation first? Shingle color helps, but it’s not magic.

Curious if anyone else has had a similar “meh” result from just changing shingle color. Maybe it’s just my house or our weird microclimate...

I’ve been wondering the same thing about how much shingle color really changes attic temps, especially when you factor in insulation and vents. My attic is barely insulated (previous owners didn’t bother), so maybe that’s why it gets so brutal. I’m leaning toward Malarkey too, but the HOA color thing is a pain - ours only allows “weathered wood” or “charcoal.” Not sure if the difference between those is enough to matter. Anyone else have a picky HOA and still notice a difference? I’m not sold on spending extra if it’s just a couple degrees cooler.

Our HOA’s the same way - only a couple “approved” shades, and they’re both dark. I went with Malarkey last year (charcoal) and honestly, the color didn’t make a huge difference, but adding a layer of blown-in insulation after the fact did. If you’re stuck with those colors, I’d focus more on beefing up your attic insulation or improving ventilation. The shingle color alone probably won’t solve the heat issue, at least not in my experience.

- Ran into the same headache with our HOA - only two options, both dark. Not much wiggle room there.
- Last summer, we had a few units reroofed with Malarkey (charcoal as well). I was hoping for a noticeable drop in attic temps, but honestly, didn’t see a huge change just from the shingle swap.
- What really made a difference:
- Added R-38 blown-in insulation in the attics.
- Upgraded to ridge vents and made sure soffits weren’t blocked.
- One owner put in a solar-powered attic fan - said it helped on the hottest days, but not a miracle worker.
- Shingle color seems to matter less than I expected, at least with these darker shades. Maybe if you could go super light, but that’s not usually HOA-friendly.
- If you’re stuck with dark colors, I’d lean hard into insulation and ventilation upgrades.
- One thing I noticed: after the insulation, ACs weren’t running as long, and upstairs rooms felt less stuffy. Not night-and-day, but enough to notice on the bills.
- Malarkey itself seems solid - no granule loss or leaks so far, and the warranty’s decent. But yeah, don’t expect it to solve heat issues by itself.
- If you haven’t checked your attic for gaps or old insulation, that’s worth a look. Sometimes it’s just patchy coverage making things worse than they need to be.
- Wouldn’t say shingle color is a total non-factor, but it’s not the main thing keeping the attic cool in my experience.
- Curious if anyone’s tried those “cool roof” coatings under HOA restrictions? Haven’t seen anyone pull that off here yet...

I’d push back a bit on shingle color not mattering much, even with dark options. There’s actually a measurable difference in solar reflectance between brands and lines - even among “charcoal” shades. Some Malarkey lines have higher reflectivity ratings than others, which can shave off a few degrees in attic temps. It’s not dramatic, but in my experience, every little bit helps, especially during heat waves. If you’re stuck with dark colors, it’s still worth checking the CRRC (Cool Roof Rating Council) data for whatever’s HOA-approved - you might find one option is slightly less heat-absorbing than the other. Not a game-changer, but sometimes those small differences add up over time.

Trying to pick a shingle that won’t cook my attic - Malarkey worth it?

I totally get the concern about attic temps. When we bought our place last year, the roof was overdue for replacement and honestly, I didn’t even realize how much shingle color could matter until I started sweating up there in August. We’re in central Texas, so the heat is no joke. Our HOA only allowed “dark neutral” colors, so I figured it was all the same. But after poking around forums (and bugging a few neighbors), I noticed some folks’ attics were noticeably cooler than mine, even with similar setups.

We ended up going with Malarkey Highlander in “Midnight Black” because it was one of the few options approved by our HOA and had a slightly higher reflectance number on the CRRC site compared to other brands’ dark shingles. It’s not like my attic turned into a walk-in fridge or anything, but I swear it’s a few degrees cooler now on those 100+ degree days. Not sure if it’s just the new shingles or maybe better ventilation from the reroof job, but every bit helps when you’re trying to keep upstairs bedrooms livable.

I know some folks say the difference is barely noticeable, but honestly, after living through one summer with the old roof and one with the new, I’ll take any edge I can get - even if it’s just psychological. Plus, my electric bill dropped a smidge. Could be coincidence...or maybe not?

If you’re stuck picking between dark colors anyway, might as well go for whatever has that tiny boost in reflectivity. It won’t solve everything (attic fans and insulation are still huge), but like you said - those little differences do add up over time.

It’s not like my attic turned into a walk-in fridge or anything, but I swear it’s a few degrees cooler now on those 100+ degree days.

That’s interesting - did you happen to measure the attic temps before and after, or just going by feel? I’ve been looking at CRRC data too, but sometimes it’s tough to tell how much of a difference those reflectance numbers actually make in real-world conditions. Also curious if you noticed any change in how fast your upstairs cools down at night. I’m debating if it’s worth upgrading insulation while I’m at it, or if the shingle swap alone is enough.

Honestly, I wouldn’t count on shingle reflectance alone to solve attic heat, especially if your insulation’s not up to par. I’ve seen plenty of folks swap to “cool” shingles and still end up with roasting attics because the real culprit was thin or patchy insulation. The CRRC numbers look great on paper, but in real life, attic airflow and insulation make a bigger dent. I’d say if you’re already tearing into the roof, beefing up insulation is worth it - otherwise, you might be disappointed by how little just the shingle swap changes things.

I swapped to Malarkey a few years back, hoping for a cooler attic, but honestly didn’t notice a huge temp drop until I added more blown-in insulation. Out of curiosity, how’s your attic ventilation? Ridge vents or just soffits? That made a bigger difference for me than the shingle brand.

I’ve seen a lot of folks focus on insulation and ventilation, but honestly, shingle color and material can still play a role - especially in hotter climates. I’ve inspected attics where dark shingles with poor ventilation just cooked everything, even with decent insulation. Ridge vents help, but if the shingles are absorbing too much heat, you’re still fighting an uphill battle. Sometimes people overlook radiant barriers, too... those can make a surprising difference.

I’ve managed a few properties with Malarkey shingles, and honestly, the lighter colors do seem to help a bit with attic temps - at least compared to the old dark asphalt ones we had before. Still, I’ve noticed that even with “cool” shingles, if the attic’s not vented right or there’s no radiant barrier, it still gets pretty toasty up there. One place had both a radiant barrier and lighter Malarkey shingles, and you could actually feel the difference walking into the attic in July. Not saying it’s magic, but it definitely helped more than just swapping shingle brands alone.

I hear you on the attic heat. I swapped out my old shingles (they were basically black tar at that point) for some lighter Malarkey ones about three summers ago. Did it help? Yeah, a bit. But honestly, it wasn’t the night-and-day difference I’d hoped for. The attic still felt like a sauna if the sun was out and the air wasn’t moving.

What actually made a bigger dent was when I finally got around to adding more vents up there. I put in a couple of those whirlybird things - nothing fancy, just the basic ones from Home Depot - and suddenly the air wasn’t just sitting there cooking everything. It’s not exactly “cool” in July, but at least I don’t feel like I’m melting when I have to go up and drag down the Christmas lights.

I’ve never tried a radiant barrier myself, but my neighbor swears by his. He did both the barrier and lighter shingles at once, and he claims his AC bills dropped a chunk. Could be true, or maybe he’s just bragging because he finally finished a project before me for once.

If you’re already due for new shingles, going lighter can’t hurt, especially if you’re in one of those places where summer feels like living on the sun. Just wouldn’t expect miracles unless you tackle the ventilation too. The combo seems to be where folks see the real payoff.

And yeah, picking shingle colors is weirdly stressful. I spent way too long holding up little samples and squinting at them in different light... only to realize they all look kinda gray from the street anyway.

Man, I totally get the stress over shingle colors - felt like I was picking paint for a spaceship or something. I went with a lighter gray Malarkey too, hoping it’d make a big difference, but yeah... attic still felt like a bread oven until I added more vents. It’s wild how much just moving the air helps. Haven’t tried radiant barriers either, but I’m always a little skeptical when someone claims their AC bill dropped in half overnight. Still, every little bit helps, especially if you’re already re-roofing.

attic still felt like a bread oven until I added more vents. It’s wild how much just moving the air helps.

That’s the key right there - ventilation does way more than shingle color alone. Lighter shingles help a bit, but if you don’t have enough intake and exhaust vents, heat just builds up. I’ve seen folks spend big on “cool” shingles and still end up with hot attics because airflow was ignored. Radiant barriers can help, but only if installed right and paired with good venting. If you’re re-roofing anyway, double-check your vent layout before worrying too much about shingle brand or color.

I’ve managed a handful of properties with everything from dark, ancient three-tabs to the newer “cool roof” shingles, and honestly, I’m always surprised how much folks focus on shingle brand or color first. Not saying Malarkey isn’t a solid product - heard good things about their impact resistance and warranty - but if you’re hoping for a miracle drop in attic temps just by swapping brands, you might be disappointed.

Had one building with light gray “energy efficient” shingles and another with basic dark brown ones. The kicker? The attic with better venting (ridge plus soffit vents, nothing fancy) ran 10-15 degrees cooler in summer, even though the shingles were darker. The other place, despite the lighter color, was basically a sauna until we added more intake vents. It’s wild how much difference that makes.

Radiant barriers are another thing people get excited about, but I’ve seen those botched more often than not. If they’re not installed with an air gap or get covered up with insulation, you’re basically throwing money away. And don’t get me started on powered attic fans - they can help in some setups but sometimes just pull conditioned air out of the house if your attic isn’t sealed up right.

If you’re re-roofing anyway, definitely worth looking at your vent layout. Sometimes contractors just slap on what’s “standard” for the area and call it good, but every house is different. I’d rather have a mid-range shingle and great airflow than the fanciest shingle on the market with poor venting.

One last thing - if you’re in a spot that gets hail or crazy wind, Malarkey’s rubberized shingles do seem to hold up better than some others. But for pure heat control? Ventilation’s still king. Shingle color and brand are more like the cherry on top... nice to have, but not the main event.

I’ve seen the same thing with attic temps - ventilation is way more important than most folks realize. I used to think shingle color would make a huge difference, but after managing a couple buildings with totally different setups, I’m convinced airflow is what really matters. Had one place with dark shingles and proper ridge/soffit vents, and it stayed way cooler than another with “cool roof” shingles but barely any venting. It’s kind of wild how much that changes things.

Malarkey’s a decent shingle, especially if you’re in a spot that gets hammered by hail or wind. The impact resistance is legit, and I haven’t had issues with warranty claims (which is honestly rare in this business). But if your main concern is attic heat, I wouldn’t expect miracles just from switching brands. The difference between brands or colors is there, but it’s not night and day unless you’re going from jet black to bright white or something.

Radiant barriers are hit or miss too. I’ve seen them work, but only when installed right - and that’s not as common as you’d hope. Most of the time, people just staple them up wherever and call it a day, then wonder why it’s still roasting up there.

If you’re re-roofing anyway, definitely take a hard look at your vent layout. I’ve had contractors try to talk me into “standard” setups that just don’t cut it for some houses. Every attic’s different - size, shape, insulation, even how much sun hits it during the day. Sometimes just adding a few more soffit vents or making sure nothing’s blocked can drop temps way more than any shingle swap.

One other thing - if you’re in a humid area, watch out for powered attic fans. I’ve seen them pull conditioned air out of the house if the attic isn’t sealed up right, which just runs up your AC bill.

Long story short: Malarkey’s good if you want durability, but for heat? Make sure your vents are dialed in first. Shingles are just the icing on the cake.