- Thicker TPO definitely gives a bit more wiggle room with heat control—good call on practicing first.
- Generally, aiming for around 900-1000°F at the nozzle works well, but it depends a lot on your welding speed and ambient temp.
- Did you notice if your weld seams had a shiny finish or more of a matte look? Shiny usually means you're pushing the heat a bit too far...
I've been wondering about that shiny vs matte thing myself. When I was patching up my garage roof last summer, I noticed some seams came out kinda glossy, and others were more dull. At first, I thought shiny meant I'd nailed it—like a nice polished finish—but then I read somewhere exactly what you're saying, that shiny actually means overheating. Go figure.
I dialed the heat back a bit and slowed down my welding speed, and the seams started looking more matte and consistent. Haven't had any leaks yet, knock on wood... but I'm still curious: is there a reliable way to test seam strength at home without special equipment? Would hate to find out the hard way during a storm.
I've found that giving the seam a gentle tug or poke with a flat screwdriver can tell you a lot. If it peels up easily, you've got issues. Learned that one the hard way after a storm... ever tried something similar?
"If it peels up easily, you've got issues. Learned that one the hard way after a storm..."
Haha, been there... I usually do the screwdriver test too, but I call it the "poke and pray" method. If it lifts easy, dial down your heat a notch and slow your roll—literally. Saved me some headaches!
Haha, the "poke and pray" method... sounds familiar. First time I tackled TPO, I thought hotter meant better—until a whole seam peeled like a banana after one gusty night. Learned quick to ease off the heat and take my sweet time. Live and learn, right?
