"ended up with a weirdly artistic melted blob instead."
Haha, been there myself—though my masterpiece was a melted screwdriver handle. Still have it somewhere as a trophy of distraction. You're spot on about bubbles usually meaning too much heat, but I've also noticed that sometimes it's about speed too. If you're moving too slow, even moderate heat can bubble things up. Took me a while (and a few melted tools) to find that sweet spot between heat and pace...
Haha, melted screwdriver handles are practically a rite of passage. You're definitely onto something with the speed factor—heat's important, but technique matters just as much. I've found that around 900-1000°F usually does the trick for TPO, but even then, if you're lingering too long in one spot, things get messy fast. Took me a while to get that rhythm down...and yeah, I've got my own collection of "abstract art" blobs tucked away somewhere too.
"I've found that around 900-1000°F usually does the trick for TPO"
Yeah, that's the sweet spot for sure, but honestly, I've seen some of my best roofers get great welds at slightly lower temps—around 850°F or so. They swear it gives them a bit more control and reduces the risk of overheating. I was skeptical at first, but after seeing fewer "abstract art" blobs (love that description, by the way), I'm starting to think there's something to it. Might be worth experimenting with if you're still getting occasional meltdowns...
Yeah, that's the sweet spot for sure, but honestly, I've seen some of my best roofers get great welds at slightly lower temps—around 850°F or so.
I've actually had better luck running even cooler than 850°F. Around 800°F seems to work fine for me, especially if you slow down a bit and focus on consistent pressure. I get that 900-1000°F is the standard recommendation, but honestly, I've had fewer headaches with overheating and fewer of those "abstract art" blobs (perfect description, btw) when dialing it back. Might depend on your specific equipment or TPO brand though...
Totally agree with dialing it back a bit. I've inspected plenty of roofs where the welds done around 800-850°F looked cleaner and held up just as well over time. Seems like the key is really in technique—steady pressure and pacing make all the difference. Plus, running cooler definitely cuts down on those frustrating overheated spots. Might not be textbook, but if it works consistently, why mess with success, right?
