QUICK FIX FOR ROOF LEAKS: DOES A TARP REALLY HOLD UP?

Ended up using peel-and-stick ice shield as a temporary patch.

I get the appeal of peel-and-stick ice shield for a quick patch, but I’ve seen it trap moisture if the roof deck’s already damp. Sometimes that leads to rot or mold by spring. For short-term fixes, I usually recommend a heavy-duty tarp with wood strips screwed down at the edges - less risk of water sneaking under, especially if you’re waiting out a few storms. Not perfect, but easier to remove and less mess later.

Tarp with wood strips has worked for me too, especially on my old asphalt roof. I’m always wary of peel-and-stick stuff - once moisture’s in, it’s tough to dry out. Tarps aren’t pretty, but at least you can check underneath if things get sketchy.

Tarps aren’t pretty, but at least you can check underneath if things get sketchy.

That’s a fair point, but I always wonder - how do you keep the tarp from shifting in high winds? I’ve seen folks use wood strips, bricks, even sandbags, but sometimes after a storm, the whole setup’s halfway off the roof. Anyone had luck with a method that actually stays put for more than a week or two? Also, does anyone worry about water pooling under the tarp and making things worse? I’ve had that happen on a low-slope roof and it was a mess.

I’ve wrestled with tarps on my old ranch house more times than I care to admit. High winds are always a pain - bricks and sandbags just roll or slide unless you get them wedged right, and even then, a big gust will move everything around. What’s worked best for me is screwing 1x2 furring strips through the tarp edges into the roof (right over the rafters if you can find them). Not ideal, since you’re putting holes in the roof, but at least it keeps the tarp from flapping off every time there’s a storm.

Pooling water is a real headache on low-slope roofs. If you don’t get the tarp tight enough or prop up the middle somehow, it’ll sag and collect water fast. I’ve tried tossing an old broomstick or some scrap lumber under the tarp to give it a bit of pitch - kind of janky, but better than nothing. Still, after a couple weeks, things always start shifting again. Honestly, tarps buy you time, but they’re not much more than a stopgap... especially if you’re dealing with heavy rain or wind.

Yeah, tarps are a pain - never had one last more than a month on my old shed, especially once the wind picked up. Ever thought about just skipping the tarp and going straight to a green roof patch, like a living roof mat or sedum blanket? I tried one as a temp fix on my garage, and it actually held up better than the blue plastic. Curious if anyone’s managed to get something like that to work long-term on a low slope.

I’ve seen a few green roof patches on low-slope sheds, but I always wondered about drainage and weight over time. Did you have to reinforce the structure at all, or did it just sit right on top? I’d be worried about moisture getting trapped underneath, especially in wetter climates.

I’d be worried about moisture getting trapped underneath, especially in wetter climates.

That’s a legit concern. I helped my uncle put a green roof on his old garden shed last spring, and we definitely had to think about drainage and weight. His shed was already pretty sturdy, but we still added a couple of extra joists just to be safe. The soil and plants aren’t light, especially after a good rain - honestly, it surprised me how much heavier it got.

As for moisture, we used a waterproof membrane under everything, then put down a layer of gravel before the soil mix. That seemed to help with drainage, but I still check on it every few weeks. He lives in the Pacific Northwest where it rains all the time, so I get what you mean about water getting trapped. So far, no leaks or rot underneath (fingers crossed), but I’ve heard stories from folks who skipped the membrane and ended up with moldy plywood after a season or two.

If you’re thinking about doing something similar, I’d say don’t skimp on the prep work. It’s tempting to just throw some dirt and sedum up there and call it good, but that’s when problems start creeping in. And yeah, tarps are fine for an emergency leak fix - I’ve used them myself - but they’re not gonna hold up long-term if water keeps pooling underneath.

It’s kind of wild how much planning goes into even small green roofs. Not sure I’d trust one on anything bigger than a shed unless you really know what you’re doing... or have deep pockets for reinforcements. But when it works out, they look awesome and keep things cooler inside during summer. Just gotta stay on top of maintenance - or at least keep an eye out for soggy corners!

Tarping definitely works as a quick fix, but I’d never trust it for more than a few weeks - especially in a rainy climate. I had to tarp my garage roof after a storm last fall. Used a heavy-duty 12-mil tarp, secured it with 2x4s screwed right into the rafters, and weighted the edges with bricks. It kept the water out for about a month, but after a couple of big windstorms, it started to shift and water found its way underneath. The plywood underneath was damp but not rotten yet, so I got lucky.

One thing I’ve noticed is that tarps don’t breathe at all. If there’s any moisture already in the roof deck or attic, it just sits there and can start to grow mold. In my case, I propped the tarp up a bit in the middle to let water run off, but you still get condensation underneath when the temps swing. Not ideal if you’re dealing with an older roof or questionable decking.

For anything longer than a few days or a week, I’d go with a peel-and-stick underlayment as a temporary patch, especially over plywood. It sticks better, seals around nails, and doesn’t trap moisture quite as badly. Costs more than a tarp, but it buys you time until you can get a real repair done.

I get why people use tarps - they’re cheap and fast - but they’re really just buying you time. If you leave one up too long, you might be looking at replacing decking or even rafters, depending on how much water sneaks in. And yeah, like you said, if water pools anywhere, it’ll find its way through eventually.

Green roofs are a whole different beast. I’ve never built one myself, but I’ve helped friends plan them. The drainage layers and membranes make all the difference - just like with a regular roof, moisture management is everything. If you skip steps or try to save money on materials, you’ll pay for it later.

Long story short: tarp if you have to, but don’t wait too long to get a proper fix. And if you’re in a wet area, check under that tarp every few days for soft spots or mold. It’s amazing how fast things can go sideways when water gets involved...

I get the concern about tarps trapping moisture, but honestly, peel-and-stick underlayment isn’t always in the budget, especially if you’re dealing with a big area.

“Costs more than a tarp, but it buys you time until you can get a real repair done.”

I get being on a budget - my roof’s got a weird pitch and just getting a quote for underlayment nearly made me choke. I did the tarp thing too, but I noticed mold starting after a few weeks. Maybe it’s my humid area (southeast), but now I’m paranoid about what’s going on under there. Still, like you said, sometimes it’s all you can do short-term. Just wish there was a cheap fix that didn’t have trade-offs...

I hear you on the mold - humidity here (Gulf Coast) is brutal, and tarps just don’t breathe. I tried doubling up with plastic sheeting once, but honestly, it trapped even more moisture. One thing that helped a bit was propping the tarp up off the roof with a few 2x4s to get some airflow underneath. Not perfect, but slowed down the funk. Still wish there was a magic cheap fix that didn’t bring a new headache...

I get the urge to double up on plastic, but honestly, every time I’ve tried that, it just made things worse. The moisture gets trapped and then you’re dealing with a whole new mess - mold, rot, you name it. I’m not convinced propping up the tarp is much better in the long run either. Maybe it slows things down a bit, but if you get a heavy rain or wind, those 2x4s can shift or even poke through the tarp.

What’s worked for me (at least for a few months) is using one of those woven blue tarps, stretched tight and secured with furring strips screwed right into the decking. Not pretty, but it keeps most of the water out and doesn’t seem to sweat as much as plastic sheeting. Still, nothing’s perfect in this humidity. I wish there was a cheap fix that didn’t end up costing more down the line... but I haven’t found it yet.

I’ve had similar luck with the blue tarps - definitely not pretty, but they seem to breathe a bit better than plastic. I tried using heavy-duty clear plastic once and it just turned into a greenhouse under there, which made the decking even worse. Have you ever tried any of those self-adhesive roof repair membranes? I’ve seen them at the hardware store, but I’m not sure if they’d hold up in our humidity or just peel right off after a few storms.

- Blue tarps do seem to let a bit of air through, but they're really just a stopgap. I usually see them start to break down after a few months in heavy sun or wind.
- Clear plastic is a mess in our climate - totally agree. Traps moisture, bakes the wood, and you end up with more rot than you started with.
- The self-adhesive membranes are interesting. I’ve inspected a few jobs where folks used them as a temporary patch. They stick well at first, but in high humidity, especially if the roof isn’t perfectly clean or dry, I’ve noticed the edges start to curl after a couple storms.
- If the decking is already damp, those membranes can actually seal in moisture and make things worse long-term.
- One thing I haven’t seen much is how they perform on different roof pitches. Steeper roofs seem to shed water better, but I wonder if the membrane would hold up better there compared to a low-slope section?

Has anyone tried using one of those membranes over older shingles versus bare decking? Curious if the surface makes a big difference in how long they last...

I’ve inspected a few jobs where folks used them as a temporary patch. They stick well at first, but in high humidity, especially if the roof isn’t perfectly clean or dry, I’ve noticed the edg...

I’ve tried the self-adhesive membrane over old shingles and bare decking. Over shingles, it stuck okay for a few weeks, but once the sun hit, the edges curled up faster than on bare wood. On bare decking, it held a bit longer, but if there was any moisture trapped underneath, I saw mold start within a month. The roof pitch definitely made a difference - on a steep section, water ran off and the patch lasted longer. Low-slope areas just pooled water and the membrane peeled sooner. Definitely not a long-term fix in my experience.

That lines up with what I’ve seen - those membranes just don’t seem to handle moisture or heat cycles well, especially on older roofs. I’ve had a few calls after storms where folks tried tarps and peel-and-stick patches, hoping to get by until the insurance adjuster showed up. Sometimes the tarp held for a couple weeks, but if it wasn’t anchored tight or if water pooled, it’d flap loose or start leaking again.

Curious if anyone’s had better luck with different tarp materials or fastening methods? I’ve mostly used the blue poly tarps with wood strips and screws along the edges, but they still seem to break down fast in sun and wind. Wondering if the heavy-duty canvas or those white UV-resistant tarps actually last longer, or if it’s just marketing hype. Anyone tried those in a storm-prone area?

Had to tarp my roof last hurricane season (Florida, so lots of rain and wind). I used the standard blue poly tarp at first, but it started shredding after about ten days - sun just ate it up, and water pooled in the dips. Tried a white UV-resistant tarp the second time around, and honestly, it held up a bit better, but still not perfect. The screws with wood strips helped some, but I still had to check and tighten them after every storm. Haven’t tried canvas yet - kinda worried about it soaking up water and getting heavy. Anyone else have luck with those?

- Been there, done that - blue tarps are basically disposable in Florida sun.
- Tried canvas once... it turned into a soggy blanket after two storms. Heavy as heck, and started to smell funky.
- Best luck I’ve had is with the heavy-duty silver tarps, but even those need constant babysitting.
- Honestly, nothing’s perfect unless you get a pro patch, but sometimes you just gotta play tarp roulette till the roofers show up.

Blue tarps really are a short-term fix, especially with the UV down here. I’ve seen them literally shred in a week during peak summer. The heavy-duty silver ones do last a bit longer, but even then, wind can work them loose or tear out the grommets if you don’t anchor them right. Out of curiosity, what kind of roof are you dealing with - shingles, tile, flat? Sometimes the slope and material make a huge difference in how well a tarp will stay put.

I’ve noticed folks sometimes skip using 2x4s or sandbags to secure the edges, which makes a big difference for storms. Ever tried using strips of wood to batten down the tarp? It’s not perfect, but it helps keep water from pooling and blowing underneath. Also, anyone ever mess with those self-adhesive roof patches as a stopgap? I’ve had mixed results, but maybe someone’s had better luck.

Yeah, those blue tarps are basically tissue paper once the sun gets cooking - seen more than a few turn into confetti after a week of Florida summer. The silver ones buy you a little time, but if you don’t batten them down with 2x4s or something heavy, you’re basically just giving the wind a new toy. I’ve tried sandbags, but on a steep roof, they just slide right off unless you get creative.

I hear you on the self-adhesive patches. I slapped one on my shed roof last year, and it held up for a couple storms, but then started peeling at the edges. Might work better on a flat roof or for a tiny leak, but I wouldn’t trust it for anything major. Honestly, nothing beats actually fixing the roof, but sometimes you just need to buy a little time. If you’ve got shingles, those battens help a ton, but on tile, it’s a whole different headache - cracked tiles everywhere if you’re not careful.