Would Malarkey shingles survive a solar-powered zombie apocalypse?

But… do those shingles actually hold up with all that extra weight and hardware? Or do they start cracking under pressure (literally)? I’ve heard mixed things about how well they work with solar installs, especially after a few years of wild weather.

I’ve inspected a handful of roofs with Malarkey shingles and solar setups, and honestly, it’s not as straightforward as the marketing makes it sound. The shingles themselves are pretty tough - impact-rated, decent flexibility, and they seem to handle hail better than some of the cheaper brands. But once you start drilling into them for solar racking, you’re introducing a lot of new variables. Flashing details matter way more than people realize.

The real issue isn’t usually the weight of the panels. Most modern roofs (assuming they’re up to code) can handle the extra load. It’s the penetrations - every lag bolt or bracket is a potential leak point, especially if the installer cuts corners or doesn’t use proper flashing. I’ve seen jobs where installers just slap sealant on top and call it good... which works until you get a couple freeze-thaw cycles or a big wind-driven rain. Then you’re looking at slow leaks, rot, and sometimes shingle cracking around the mounts.

As for “years of wild weather,” that’s where things get dicey. In my area (Midwest), we get ice dams and big temperature swings. Malarkey’s SBS-modified asphalt does help with flexibility, but after five or six years, UV and thermal cycling still take their toll - especially around penetrations. I’ve seen some minor curling and granule loss right where the mounts are.

If you’re banking on your roof holding up during a zombie siege, I’d be more worried about water intrusion than structural collapse. But if the install was rushed or you’ve got an older deck underneath, yeah, I could see things going sideways at the worst possible moment.

Long story short: Malarkey’s better than most for this kind of setup, but it’s not bulletproof. The installer’s attention to detail is what really makes or breaks it. If you’re in a harsh climate, annual checks around those mounts aren’t a bad idea - even if there aren’t zombies clawing at your gutters yet.

Zombie apocalypse or not, I keep coming back to the same question: why do we trust a shingle (even a “tough” one like Malarkey) to stay watertight after it’s been poked full of holes? I get that the SBS-modified asphalt is more flexible than the old-school stuff, but flexibility only goes so far when you’ve got lag bolts and brackets shifting around with every freeze-thaw cycle. Has anyone actually seen a solar install where the mounts *didn’t* eventually show some kind of wear or minor leak after a few years?

I’m not saying Malarkey’s bad - honestly, I’d pick them over most of the big-box brands for hail and wind. But I’ve crawled around enough attics to know that even “good” shingles can’t save you from a lazy installer or half-baked flashing job. And let’s be real: how many solar crews are truly roofing experts? Most seem to just want to get in and out as fast as possible.

One thing I haven’t seen mentioned much is deck condition. If your sheathing is already sketchy (old plywood, water stains, soft spots), adding solar hardware just speeds up the inevitable. My neighbor had Malarkeys put on right before his panels went up - looked great at first, but two winters later he was patching leaks around three mounts. Installer blamed “unusual weather,” but honestly, it looked like they skipped proper flashing and just globbed on sealant.

If you’re in a place with wild weather swings (I’m in Colorado - hail, snow, 60-degree temp jumps), annual checks aren’t just nice - they’re survival. Not sure about zombies, but water will find any weak spot way faster than the undead ever could.

Curious if anyone’s tried those newer rail-less mounting systems? Supposedly fewer penetrations... but does that actually help long-term? Or is it just trading one problem for another?

You nailed it about the deck condition - people always obsess over the shingle brand, but if your plywood’s already mushy, it doesn’t matter if you’ve got Malarkey or magic beans up there. I’ve seen plenty of “premium” installs where the mounts looked good for a year or two, then started leaking right where the installer skipped proper flashing. Rail-less systems sound promising on paper (fewer holes, less risk?), but I’m still a little skeptical. Less hardware means less to fail... or maybe just different stuff to fail? Either way, annual checks are my go-to too - water’s relentless, zombies or not.

I’ve seen rail-less setups go both ways. On my neighbor’s place, the installer swore up and down that fewer penetrations meant fewer leaks, but a year later we were up there chasing drips around every standoff. Turns out, it’s not just about hardware - if the underlayment or flashing isn’t spot-on, water finds a way. Can’t count how many times I’ve told folks: if your deck’s soft, no shingle magic will save you, apocalypse or not. I’ll take a solid deck and good flashing over fancy shingles every time.

Yeah, I hear you on the deck and flashing - my neighbor’s roof looked fine until we had that hailstorm last spring. The Malarkeys held up okay, but the spots where the solar guys missed the flashing started leaking. I’m not convinced any shingle can make up for a sloppy install, especially with all that extra gear bolted on. Still, I’d rather patch a few leaks than deal with zombies chewing through the attic, I guess…

Yeah, I totally get where you’re coming from. I’ve seen so many roofs where the shingles themselves are holding up just fine, but then you get one spot where someone got lazy with the flashing or didn’t seal around a vent right, and that’s all it takes for water to sneak in. Doesn’t matter if you’ve got Malarkey, CertainTeed, GAF - if the install’s sloppy, you’re gonna have headaches. Solar installs seem to make it even trickier. I’ve inspected a few homes where the panels were bolted on and whoever did it just kind of shrugged at the flashing details. Next big rain, suddenly there’s a drip in the attic.

Funny thing is, I’ve actually seen Malarkey shingles take a beating in hail and come out looking way better than some of the cheaper brands. The rubberized stuff seems to help with impact, but yeah… even the best shingle can’t fix a bad install job. And once you start poking holes in the roof for solar racks, you’re basically inviting trouble unless every single penetration is flashed and sealed right.

I had a client last year who thought their “lifetime” shingles meant they’d never have to worry about leaks again. Then their cousin put in solar panels as a DIY project… let’s just say it was raining inside their living room after the first storm. Ended up costing more to fix than if they’d just hired someone who knew what they were doing.

As for zombies - honestly, if they’re chewing through your attic, I think you’ve got bigger problems than shingle brands. Maybe invest in some metal sheathing up there? Or just keep a baseball bat handy...

But yeah, I’d rather patch a leak than deal with mold or rot down the line. Water always finds the weak spot, and it’s almost never where you expect it.

Water always finds the weak spot, and it’s almost never where you expect it.

Couldn’t agree more. I’ve seen “lifetime” shingles with leaks just because someone skipped a step with the flashing. Doesn’t matter how tough the shingle is if the penetrations aren’t sealed up tight. I always tell folks - double check every boot, vent, and bracket after any install, especially with solar. One missed spot and you’re chasing water stains for months.

Doesn’t matter how tough the shingle is if the penetrations aren’t sealed up tight.

That’s the truth. I went with Malarkey for my last re-roof, thinking it’d be a “set it and forget it” deal, but after adding solar panels, I found out the hard way that even premium shingles don’t mean squat if the installer skimps on flashing or skips sealing around those mounts. Had a slow leak right above my kitchen - took months to track down and cost me more in drywall than it would’ve to just double-check things at install.

People get all caught up in shingle brands and warranties, but honestly, most leaks I’ve seen (including my own) come from missed details around boots or brackets. Especially with all the extra holes solar adds. I’m not saying Malarkey isn’t solid - it’s held up better than the basic stuff on my neighbor’s roof - but nothing survives a lazy install, apocalypse or not.

If you’re on a budget like me, I’d say spend less on “lifetime” shingles and more making sure whoever’s up there actually cares about every single penetration and flashing. Otherwise, you’ll just end up paying for repairs anyway...

That’s the thing - folks get so hung up on the “bulletproof” shingle marketing, but it’s always the stuff around the penetrations that bites you later. I’ve seen plenty of high-end roofs trashed by a single missed bead of sealant or a lazy boot install. Solar just multiplies the risk, since every bracket is another chance for water to sneak in.

Curious if anyone’s had luck with those newer mounting systems that claim to be “no-penetration” or use flashing bases? I’ve only seen a couple in person, and honestly, I’m not convinced they’re foolproof - especially after a few years of freeze/thaw cycles. Or maybe it’s just our Midwest weather making me skeptical.

Also, has anyone actually had a shingle warranty honored after a leak from solar mounts? I hear about these “lifetime” warranties, but in practice, seems like most manufacturers blame the installer and vice versa...

- Had solar put on my Malarkey roof about 4 years ago (also Midwest).
- Installer used those “no-penetration” mounts - looked solid at first, but after two winters, I noticed a small leak near one bracket.
- Turns out the flashing shifted a bit with freeze/thaw. Installer fixed it, but I’m still checking every spring.
- Warranty? Manufacturer said it was the installer’s problem, installer blamed shifting shingles... classic runaround.
- Honestly, I’d trust good flashing and careful install over any “lifetime” shingle promise.

That’s pretty much been my experience too - no-penetration mounts sound great on paper, but Midwest freeze/thaw cycles always seem to find a way to mess with things. I had a similar situation last year, except the leak showed up right over our kitchen... not ideal. My installer also pointed fingers at “shifting shingles” and said the Malarkey warranty didn’t cover it.

Honestly, I’d trust good flashing and careful install over any “lifetime” shingle promise.

Couldn’t agree more. I’d take a solid install job over fancy marketing any day. I’ve seen “50-year” shingles curl up after 10 years just because the flashing or underlayment was rushed.

One thing I’m curious about - did your installer use any kind of sealant under the mounts, or was it all just mechanical? Mine swore by some high-end butyl tape plus extra flashing, but even that didn’t hold up perfectly once we got those big ice dams last February. I’ve heard some folks go back every spring and re-caulk around the brackets just as a precaution. Kind of a pain, but maybe worth it if you want to avoid surprises.

Also, how’s your roof holding up in terms of granule loss or shingle wear? Mine’s about five years old now and I’m starting to notice some bare spots where the panels shade the roof. Wondering if that’s just normal with solar or if it’s something with these Malarkey shingles in particular.

Honestly, between leaks, warranties that don’t really cover much, and all the finger-pointing, I sometimes wonder if we’re better off with a metal roof for solar in this part of the country. Anyone tried that route? Seems like it’d be sturdier, but maybe more hassle upfront...

Honestly, between leaks, warranties that don’t really cover much, and all the finger-pointing, I sometimes wonder if we’re better off with a metal roof for solar in this part of the country.

I get the appeal of metal, but it’s not a magic bullet either. I’ve seen plenty of condensation issues and noise complaints, especially when temps swing fast. Plus, upfront cost is no joke. Malarkey’s not perfect, but with a careful install and regular checks, I’d still take a composite shingle over metal for most Midwest homes. Just my two cents.

Metal’s definitely got its perks, but I’ve seen ice damming get worse on some steep metal roofs around here. Composite shingles like Malarkey seem to handle hail and wind pretty well if they’re installed right. Maintenance is key either way, especially with solar mounts.

- Malarkey’s tough, but I’d still worry about those solar mounts being the weak spot if zombies start climbing up there.
- Had composite shingles on my last place - hail didn’t faze them, but wind-driven rain found its way in around the flashing.
- Metal’s noisy as heck in storms, and yeah, ice damming is a pain if you don’t keep the gutters clear.
- Maintenance is everything. Doesn’t matter what you put up if you ignore it for a few winters... or apocalypses.
- If zombies are solar-powered, maybe just unplug the panels and call it a day?

Maintenance is everything. Doesn’t matter what you put up if you ignore it for a few winters... or apocalypses.

Couldn’t agree more with this. I’ve seen plenty of “indestructible” roofs fail just because folks skipped checking the flashing or let debris pile up. Malarkey’s solid, but even the best shingles need a little TLC - especially around those solar mounts. Anyone ever tried reinforcing the mounts with extra sealant or flashing? That’s usually where I see leaks start, zombie apocalypse or not.

I’ve always wondered if adding extra sealant around the mounts actually helps long-term or just makes a mess later when you need to swap panels. My neighbor swears by using metal flashing under every bracket, but I went with the manufacturer’s kit and just kept an eye on it after storms. Anyone run into issues with ice damming around solar mounts? That’s been a bigger headache for me than leaks so far.

Anyone run into issues with ice damming around solar mounts? That’s been a bigger headache for me than leaks so far.

I’ve managed a few buildings with solar installs, and honestly, ice damming is the one thing we never really solved. We tried extra sealant once - just made it harder to get the mounts off later, and didn’t seem to help much with the ice. Metal flashing under every bracket sounds good in theory, but I’ve seen it actually channel water in weird ways if it’s not done right. Did you notice more ice buildup after your panels went up, or was it always an issue? Sometimes I wonder if the panels themselves just change how snow melts and refreezes on the roof...

Yeah, I’ve definitely noticed more ice damming since adding panels. Before, the snow just slid off, but now it seems to melt unevenly and then refreeze right at the mounts. I tried heat cables last winter, but honestly, they were kind of a pain to install around the brackets. Anyone else have luck with those?

Heat cables are a bit of a headache with solar mounts, I agree. I’ve seen a few folks try those zig-zag patterns, but getting them to stay in place around the brackets is tricky - plus, they don’t always melt the ice right where you need it. What’s helped on some properties is adding snow guards higher up to slow the slide, so the melting is more gradual. Not perfect, but less mess at the eaves. The combo of panels and brackets just makes winter roof management... interesting.