It’s wild how those black streaks just kind of sneak up on you, right? One year, the roof looks fine, and then suddenly it’s got that tiger-stripe look like it’s auditioning for a nature documentary. Up here in the PNW, I swear moss is basically a neighbor at this point. But yeah, it’s not just an eyesore—moss and algae can definitely do more than mess with your curb appeal.
The main problem is that moss holds moisture against the shingles. Over time, that moisture can soften the asphalt, and if it’s thick enough, the roots (well, “rhizoids” if we’re being technical) can actually lift the shingles a bit. Once water gets under there, you’re inviting rot, not to mention potential leaks. I’ve poked at a few spots on my own roof where the moss was thickest and, sure enough, the shingles underneath felt kind of spongy—like a stale cracker left out in the rain. Not a good sign.
I get what you mean about “aged gracefully.” Sometimes it’s just code for “I haven’t gotten up there in a decade.” The thing is, some of these newer shingles (like Malarkey and a few others) are supposed to have algae resistance baked in, but even then, nothing’s totally maintenance-free. I’ve seen Malarkey hold up better than most around here, but if you let moss go wild for years, even the best shingles will start to break down. Nature always seems to win eventually.
A buddy of mine tried going full eco-warrior and let the moss grow, thinking it was “natural insulation.” Fast forward five years—he had to replace a chunk of decking because the moss basically turned it to compost. Lesson learned: a little maintenance goes a long way, especially in wet climates.
If you’re seeing crumbly or soft spots under the moss, it’s probably worth dealing with it sooner rather than later. Gentle cleaning (nothing too harsh) and maybe some zinc strips can keep things in check. Otherwise, you might end up with “aged disgracefully”—which is just expensive.
All that said, if we ever do get a solar-powered zombie apocalypse, my money’s still on the roofs with the least rot... zombies hate good drainage.
- Malarkey’s algae resistance is decent, but yeah, nothing’s invincible if you let moss take over.
- I’ve tried zinc strips—mixed results, but better than nothing.
- Had to replace a few shingles last year where moss got under them.
- Honestly, I’d trust a clean Malarkey roof over most others if zombies start climbing.
- Still, regular cleaning beats any “maintenance-free” claim, especially in the PNW.
You’re spot on about regular cleaning being the real “secret sauce,” especially around here. I’ve seen too many folks get sold on the idea that algae-resistant shingles mean you can just ignore your roof for a decade. Doesn’t matter if it’s Malarkey, CertainTeed, or whatever—if you let moss or debris pile up, you’re asking for trouble. The PNW is brutal for that.
Zinc strips are a mixed bag, yeah. They help, but only if you install enough of them and keep gutters clear so runoff actually hits the right spots. I’ve seen some roofs where the zinc only worked in streaks, leaving the rest to fend for itself. Still, it’s better than nothing, and definitely better than letting moss get a foothold.
I’d take a well-maintained Malarkey roof over most others too, especially if we’re talking about zombie hordes (solar-powered or not). The impact resistance is no joke, and the granule retention seems better than average in my experience. But even the toughest shingle can’t fight off a moss mat that’s been left to grow for years. Maintenance always wins in the end.
But even the toughest shingle can’t fight off a moss mat that’s been left to grow for years. Maintenance always wins in the end.
Couldn’t agree more with this. I’ve seen Malarkey roofs hold up to some wild hail and wind, but when folks let moss take over, it’s game over—doesn’t matter what brand you’ve got up there. The PNW just breeds that stuff. I’ve had customers swear by zinc strips, but like you said, if you don’t have enough or they’re not installed right, you end up with those weird clean streaks and the rest of the roof still looks like a chia pet.
One thing I’d add—people sometimes forget about overhanging branches. Even with algae-resistant shingles, if you’ve got trees dumping needles and shade all year, you’re just asking for trouble. I tell folks: keep the roof clear, trim back those branches, and check for clogged gutters every fall. It’s not glamorous, but it beats replacing half your roof after a few years.
Malarkey’s impact resistance is solid, but nothing’s truly “set it and forget it” around here. Even in a zombie apocalypse, you’d still need to get up there with a broom now and then... unless the zombies start doing roof maintenance too.
If zombies start doing roof maintenance, I’ll eat my hat. In reality, even the toughest shingles—Malarkey included—aren’t immune to the basics getting ignored. I’ve lost count of how many inspections I’ve done where the shingles were technically “premium,” but the moss, needles, and clogged gutters had already done their damage.
Here’s how I break it down for clients:
1. Trim back any branches that hang over your roof. Shade + debris = moss city.
2. Keep gutters clear, especially before the rainy season. Overflowing water will back up under shingles.
3. Don’t count on zinc strips alone. They only work where the runoff hits, and even then, you need enough coverage.
4. Sweep or blow off debris a couple times a year—doesn’t have to be fancy, just keep things clear.
Malarkey’s impact rating is great for hail, but that’s not what ruins most roofs up here. It’s the slow, sneaky stuff—moss, pooling water, rot. Maintenance is boring, but it’s way cheaper than a roof replacement. Even if the world ends, you’ll want a dry place to hide.