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Would Malarkey shingles survive a solar-powered zombie apocalypse?

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You nailed it - moss is relentless, especially around here. Even with the higher-end shingles, if you’ve got shade and steady moisture, it’s just a matter of time. I’ve seen Malarkey hold up better than most, but nothing’s truly moss-proof in the PNW. Skipping a cleaning cycle can sneak up on you fast; I’ve inspected roofs where just one missed season led to edge curling or even leaks. Gentle cleaning’s definitely the way to go - pressure washing almost always does more harm than good. And yeah, moss beats raccoons any day... at least it doesn’t chew through wiring.


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editor92

Malarkey does seem to outlast a lot of other brands around here, but I’m not convinced anything’s truly “apocalypse-proof” - solar-powered zombies or otherwise. Even the best shingles start to show wear if you let moss get a foothold. I’ve seen some folks try those zinc or copper strips to slow moss growth, but results are mixed. Anyone actually had long-term luck with those? I always wonder if the cost and hassle are worth it, or if it’s just another thing to maintain.


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I’ve managed a few buildings with Malarkey shingles, and while they do hold up better than some brands, nothing’s immune if you let moss or algae take over. We tried zinc strips on one property - honestly, they helped for maybe two seasons, but after that, the moss just found its way around. Maintenance is still needed. The strips aren’t a magic bullet, and you’ve got to factor in the extra labor every couple of years. In my experience, regular cleaning does more than any metal strip ever did.


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breezec23

- Gotta agree,

“regular cleaning does more than any metal strip ever did.”
I tried zinc strips too - felt like a waste after year two.
- Power-washing once a year (carefully) has kept my roof looking decent. Not glamorous but it’s cheaper than replacing shingles.
- If the zombies are solar-powered, maybe they’ll just clean the moss for us? Wishful thinking...


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“regular cleaning does more than any metal strip ever did.”

I’m with you there. I’ve seen zinc strips work for a bit, but after a couple seasons, the moss just comes back. Power-washing helps, but you gotta be gentle or you’ll blast off granules - seen that mistake too many times. If Malarkey shingles are as tough as they claim, maybe they’d hold up better, but nothing’s really maintenance-free. And if the zombies are solar-powered, I guess we’re all just hoping they’re into landscaping...


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anelson93

I get where you’re coming from, but I’ve gotta push back a bit on the “regular cleaning does more” idea. Sure, cleaning helps, but I’ve seen some of the newer algae-resistant shingles (Malarkey included) actually make a noticeable difference, especially in our damp northwest climate. Less moss and streaking, for real. Metal strips never did much for me either, but I’d take a shingle with built-in protection over just hoping my broom skills hold up. Maintenance is always part of the deal, but some products really do make it easier.


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jake_williams

I’d take a shingle with built-in protection over just hoping my broom skills hold up.

I hear you - my last place had those algae-resistant Malarkeys, and honestly, the roof stayed way cleaner than my neighbor’s standard shingles. Still needed to sweep pine needles, but moss was way less of a headache. Did you notice any difference in how they handled heavy rain?


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lindac89

Did you notice any difference in how they handled heavy rain?

Honestly, I’m not convinced the algae-resistant ones make a huge difference with rain. My neighbor’s Malarkeys shed water fine, but so did my old GAFs. If anything, the real issue was always clogged gutters from needles, not the shingles themselves. Maybe it’s more about keeping up with debris than the brand?


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I get what you’re saying about the gutters - around here, the pine needles are relentless. I’ve seen even the fanciest shingles struggle if the gutters are jammed up. Still, I kinda wonder if the Malarkey ones might hold up better long-term, especially with all the storms we’ve been getting. My uncle swears his Malarkeys handled last year’s downpours better than his old CertainTeeds, but honestly, maybe it’s just because he finally put in those mesh gutter guards.

Do you think shingle weight or thickness makes any difference when it comes to shedding water during those crazy rainstorms? Or is it mostly about the angle of your roof and how well you keep debris off? Sometimes I think people expect the shingles to do everything, but a little maintenance goes a long way...


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I've seen a lot of folks assume heavier or thicker shingles will automatically shed water better, but honestly, that's not always the case. The roof pitch and how well the shingles are installed matter way more when it comes to drainage during big storms. If your roof's got a low slope, even the toughest shingle can get overwhelmed if debris piles up. Maintenance is huge - those mesh guards probably made more difference for your uncle than swapping brands. I’ve replaced plenty of “premium” shingles that failed just because the gutters were clogged or the roof was too flat. Shingle quality helps, but you can't skip the basics.


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joshuaskier

- 100% agree - pitch matters way more than shingle thickness.
- I learned the hard way after a “premium” shingle install on my low-slope porch... still had leaks when leaves clogged things up.
- Mesh guards are underrated. Zombies might not care, but rain sure does.
- If the apocalypse hits, I’m betting on clean gutters and a steep roof, not just fancy shingles.


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Pitch really is king, especially with our weather swings. I’ve seen plenty of “lifetime” shingles fail on low slopes - water just finds a way in, especially if debris piles up. Mesh guards help, but you still need to keep them clear. Malarkey’s a solid brand, but even those won’t save you from pooling water or clogged gutters. If you’re dealing with a shallow pitch, I’d focus more on waterproof underlayment and regular gutter checks than shingle brand. Steep roofs just shed water better, plain and simple.


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I’ve always wondered if the underlayment matters more than the actual shingle brand when you’re dealing with a really shallow pitch. I get that Malarkey has a good rep, but has anyone seen a big difference with synthetic underlayments versus traditional felt in those situations? My neighbor’s low-slope roof had “lifetime” shingles too, but it was the ice damming and slow drainage that did him in, not the shingles themselves.


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fitness_donna

Underlayment definitely matters, especially on low-slope roofs. I’ve seen plenty of “premium” shingles fail early just because water got under them and the underlayment couldn’t handle it. Between synthetic and felt, synthetic usually holds up better against standing water and doesn’t wrinkle as much, which is a big deal when you’re dealing with slow drainage. That said, even the best underlayment won’t save you from ice damming if the ventilation and drainage aren’t up to par.

Your neighbor’s situation is pretty common - shingles get blamed, but it’s almost always the stuff underneath or around them that causes leaks on shallow pitches. I’d say focus on ice and water shield in those trouble spots, and don’t cheap out on the underlayment. Malarkey shingles are solid, but they’re only as good as what’s underneath and how well the roof moves water off. You’re asking the right questions - most folks just look at the shingle warranty and call it a day.


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hunterexplorer

Had to laugh at the idea of Malarkey shingles holding up in a solar-powered zombie apocalypse - honestly, if anything’s gonna survive that, it’ll be the stuff you don’t see. I’ve been on too many roofs where the “premium” shingle looked fine, but the underlayment was a soggy mess underneath. Last winter, my neighbor had a low-slope roof with fancy shingles and still ended up with leaks after a week of freeze-thaw cycles. Turned out they’d used basic felt instead of synthetic or ice & water shield in the valleys. Didn’t matter how tough the shingle was - once water got underneath, it was game over.

I get why people focus on the shingle brand (Malarkey’s good, no argument there), but honestly, I’d put more money into high-quality synthetic underlayment and making sure there’s proper ventilation. If you’re in a spot with wild weather swings or slow drainage, that’s what’ll keep your roof alive - zombies or not. Shingles are just the armor; it’s what’s underneath that keeps you safe when things get weird.


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alexr65

Shingles are just the armor; it’s what’s underneath that keeps you safe when things get weird.

I get where you’re coming from, but I’d push back a bit on the idea that underlayment and ventilation are always the main players. They’re huge, no doubt, but I’ve seen plenty of cases where the shingle itself made or broke the roof - especially in places with wild wind or hail. For example, I’m in Colorado, and after last year’s hailstorm, the houses with Malarkey or other impact-rated shingles had way less damage than the ones with standard asphalt, even when both had synthetic underlayment. The underlayment was fine, but the cheaper shingles got shredded, and then water got in anyway.

Here’s how I look at it:

1. Start with a solid deck - no rot, no soft spots.
2. Use a good synthetic underlayment or ice & water shield, especially in valleys and eaves.
3. Pick a shingle that matches your climate. If you’re in a hail zone, go for Class 4 impact-rated. If you get crazy wind, check the wind rating.
4. Don’t skimp on ventilation - ridge vents, soffit vents, whatever works for your roof style.
5. Pay attention to installation. Even the best materials fail if they’re slapped on wrong.

I’ve had to replace a section of my own roof after a windstorm because the shingles just peeled off - underlayment was still there, but it didn’t matter once the top layer was gone. On the flip side, my neighbor’s place had basic felt but heavy-duty shingles, and they held up fine (though I did tell him to upgrade the underlayment next time).

Long story short, it’s all about balance. Underlayment and ventilation are critical, but if you cheap out on shingles in a rough climate, you’re still rolling the dice. And yeah, if zombies are climbing up there, I’d want every layer working together... not just what’s underneath.


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debbiefisher

Long story short, it’s all about balance. Underlayment and ventilation are critical, but if you cheap out on shingles in a rough climate, you’re still rolling the dice.

Couldn’t agree more with this. I’ve seen folks spend a fortune on fancy underlayment and then slap on bargain-bin shingles, thinking they’re set for the next big storm. Doesn’t usually end well, especially around here (I’m in Nebraska, so hail is basically a spring tradition). Had a job last summer where the Malarkey Class 4s took a direct hit and barely showed a scuff, while the neighbor’s standard 3-tabs looked like someone took a weed whacker to them. Underlayment was still there, but water found its way in through all those shingle craters.

I do think installation gets overlooked a lot, too. Even the best shingle won’t save you if it’s nailed wrong or the starter strip’s missing. Zombies or not, you want every layer doing its job, but the top layer’s the first line of defense. If you’re in a spot with wild weather, it’s worth paying for the good stuff up top.


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baileyhiker

I get where you’re coming from about installation being just as important as the materials. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been called out to fix leaks on “premium” roofs, only to find the shingles were nailed too high or the starter strip was skipped altogether. Doesn’t matter if you’ve got Malarkey, CertainTeed, or whatever - if the basics aren’t done right, you’re asking for trouble.

That said, I’ll give Malarkey credit where it’s due. Had a hailstorm roll through here (Kansas side) last year, and I checked on a couple jobs we’d done with their Legacy line. Not a single shingle blown off, and just a few minor dings. Meanwhile, the neighbor’s roof looked like Swiss cheese. But even then, I’ve seen folks assume Class 4 means invincible. It buys you time, sure, but nothing’s bulletproof - especially if you get one of those sideways hailstorms with 70 mph winds.

One thing I don’t see mentioned enough is attic ventilation. Folks will shell out for the “impact resistant” label but ignore the fact that poor airflow cooks the shingles from underneath. Seen more than a few roofs curl up after five years because someone thought ridge vents were optional.

If we’re talking zombie apocalypse - solar-powered or not - I’d still want Malarkey up there over most brands, but only if it’s installed by someone who actually cares about the details. Otherwise, you’re just giving the undead an easier way in... or at least a leaky attic to hide in.

Long story short: good shingles help, but they’re just one piece of the puzzle. Don’t cheap out on labor or skip steps thinking the fancy label will save you when things get wild.


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I’ve been digging into this stuff since buying my place a couple years ago, and it’s wild how much the install matters. I almost went with Malarkey Legacy last summer - ended up with CertainTeed because of what was in stock, but honestly, I probably would’ve been happy either way if the crew did solid work. My neighbor had “top shelf” shingles too, but his installer skipped ice and water shield in a couple valleys. First big rain, he had water spots on his ceiling. Makes you realize how little the brand matters if shortcuts get taken.

Attic ventilation is one of those things nobody really talks about until it’s too late. I crawled up there after our first winter and realized my soffit vents were half-blocked by insulation. Cleared those out and added a solar fan - haven’t seen any curling or weird heat issues since, even during that nasty heat wave last August.

Class 4 is good peace of mind, but yeah, nothing’s indestructible. If zombies (or just Kansas hail) are coming for my roof, I’d rather have a careful installer than just a fancy label on the shingle bundle.


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You nailed it - shingle brand gets all the attention, but a good install is what really keeps the water out. I’ve seen “premium” roofs fail in their first year just because someone got lazy with flashing or skipped the ice and water in the valleys, like your neighbor’s situation. Ventilation’s another one folks overlook until they get weird attic smells or their shingles start curling in July. Clearing those soffits and adding a solar fan was a smart move. Class 4 shingles are tough, but yeah, if the crew cuts corners, even the best materials won’t save you from leaks or hail - or zombies, for that matter.


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