- Warm weather really does make a difference—those adhesive strips just don’t bond right in the cold.
- I’ve tried the high-wind ridge caps on my shed. They cost a bit more, but haven’t lost a shingle since, even with some nasty gusts this spring.
- If you’re in a windy spot, I’d say it’s worth the upgrade.
- Only thing: make sure you use the right nails and don’t skimp on them. I learned that the hard way a few years back... shingles all over the yard after a storm.
- Not a fan of redoing work, so now I just wait for a warm stretch and do it right the first time.
I get the whole “wait for warm weather” thing, but honestly, I’ve done plenty of ridge installs in the cold—sometimes you just can’t wait, especially if you’re patching up after a storm. The trick is to use a roofing adhesive (like a dab of asphalt cement) under each shingle tab when it’s chilly out. That way, you’re not relying on those factory strips to do all the work until things heat up.
Also, about the high-wind caps—yeah, they’re solid, but I’ve seen regular ridge shingles hold up fine if you stagger your nails and make sure they’re driven flush (not sunk too deep). Overdriving can actually make them more likely to rip off. Had a job last winter where we had to redo part of a hip because someone went wild with the nail gun... cost more time than just doing it right.
Bottom line: warm weather helps, but with the right adhesive and careful nailing, you don’t have to put everything on hold till spring. Sometimes you gotta work with what you’ve got, especially in places where “warm stretch” means 40 degrees for two days in January.
Nailed it with the adhesive tip—cold weather’s not ideal, but sometimes you just gotta get it done. I’ve had shingles sit tight through some nasty Midwest wind when I used a little extra asphalt cement under each tab. Agree on the nail gun too... nothing like chasing down blown-off caps because someone buried the nails. I usually go slow and double-check as I go, especially if my fingers are freezing. Not perfect, but it beats waiting for “spring” that never shows up around here.
I’ve had shingles sit tight through some nasty Midwest wind when I used a little extra asphalt cement under each tab.
That little trick has saved me a few headaches too. For the hip and ridge, I always cut my own caps from three-tab shingles to save cash—just takes a steady hand and patience. One thing I learned the hard way: overlap each piece enough so you don’t get gaps after a freeze-thaw cycle. I also press down on each cap for a few seconds so the adhesive grabs, even if it’s cold. Not perfect, but definitely better than paying for blown-off caps later.
Cutting your own caps from three-tabs is definitely the way to go if you’re trying to keep costs down, but I’ll say this—don’t skimp on the overlap, especially if you’re in a spot with big temp swings. I’ve seen folks try to stretch their shingles by trimming them too narrow and then end up with exposed seams after a couple freeze-thaw cycles. Not worth the few bucks saved.
Pressing down on each cap helps, but I’ve found that warming the shingles up a bit (even just bringing them inside overnight) makes a big difference in how well the adhesive grabs, especially in colder weather. If you’re stuck working in the cold, a dab of roofing cement under each cap edge can save you from callbacks down the line. One thing I do disagree with is relying only on hand pressure—if it’s below 40°F, that sealant isn’t going to activate right away no matter how hard you press.
And yeah, patience is key...but sometimes I wish there was a shortcut for those endless hips and ridges.
