I get where you’re coming from about not sweating every little dip, but I’ve gotta say, sometimes those “character” bumps can turn into real headaches down the line. Ever had a ridge where water started pooling or ice dams formed because of a low spot? It’s rare, but I’ve seen it happen, especially on older homes with weird framing.
I’m all for not chasing perfection—nobody’s got time for that—but I do think it’s worth taking an extra minute to check your line before you start nailing. Even just running a string line can help catch the worst offenders. Have you ever tried using a flexible straightedge instead of eyeballing it? I find it helps me split the difference between “good enough” and “wavy mess.”
Curious if anyone else has run into issues with shims causing more problems than they solve. Sometimes less is more, but sometimes a little extra fuss saves you grief later...
I’ve definitely run into those “character” bumps turning into full-on personality disorders after a few winters. My last house had a ridge that looked fine at first, but once the snow hit, I got ice dams right where I’d tried to fudge it with some shims. Lesson learned—sometimes those quick fixes just shift the problem somewhere else. I like the string line trick too, and honestly, I’ve started using a 4-foot level as my “straightedge” just to keep things from getting too wild. Not perfect, but it keeps the roof from looking like a rollercoaster.
That reminds me of a job I did after a hailstorm—customer had tried to “eyeball” the ridge and ended up with a wavy mess. I’ve always found that once you get a little off, it just compounds down the line, especially with hips and ridges. Ever tried using a chalk line for the whole run, or do you stick with the level? I’ve noticed in colder climates, even tiny dips can turn into ice dam magnets. Curious if anyone’s had luck with those flexible ridge vents smoothing things out, or if they just make things trickier.
Chalk line’s definitely been more reliable for me than just a level, especially on longer runs. I’ve tried those flexible ridge vents a couple times—mixed results. They’re great for airflow, but if the decking underneath isn’t dead-straight, they can actually accentuate dips or humps rather than hide them. In cold climates, like you said, even a small uneven spot can end up as an ice dam trouble spot. If the roof’s got a bit of wave already, I’ll sometimes shim under the vent to keep things smoother, but it’s extra work.
I get what you’re saying about the flexible ridge vents showing off any dips or humps, but honestly, I’ve had better luck with them than with the rigid ones. The rigid vents just don’t want to play nice if your decking isn’t perfect—at least the flexible ones will bend a bit and you can usually coax them into looking halfway decent. Shimming is a pain, yeah, but sometimes it’s less hassle than trying to force a stiff vent onto a wavy roof.
If the roof’s got a bit of wave already, I’ll sometimes shim under the vent to keep things smoother, but it’s extra work.
I hear you on the extra work, but in my experience, shimming is still easier than dealing with leaks or ice dams down the line. I’ve seen more issues from folks skipping that step and just hoping for the best. If you’re in a spot that gets real cold, I’d rather spend an hour shimming than have to fix water damage later. Just my two cents—sometimes “extra work” up front saves you way more trouble in the long run.
