Struggling with installing hip and ridge shingles - any tips?

Eyeballing it got me in trouble too - first ridge I ever did looked fine up close, but once I stepped back, it was way off. My trick now is snapping a chalk line on both sides of the ridge and checking it from the ground before I start nailing anything down. Saved me a ton of rework, especially on older roofs where nothing’s actually straight. I’ve tried those pre-bent ridge caps, but honestly, they didn’t flex enough for my wonky roofline. Just taking it slow and double-checking alignment as I go made all the difference for me.

Chalk lines are a lifesaver, honestly. I learned the hard way too - first time I tried just “following the ridge,” it looked like a snake from the driveway. I do a dry lay with a few shingles before nailing, just to see how things line up. Pre-bent caps never quite sat right for me either, especially on those old farmhouses where nothing’s square. Sometimes I’ll even use a level if the ridge is really weird, just to double check.

Chalk lines are a must, but even then, I’ve seen ridges that just wander no matter what you do. On older roofs, sometimes I’ll snap two lines - one each side of the ridge - just to keep things looking straight from the ground. Pre-bent caps never fit right for me either, especially after a storm when nothing’s square anymore. Sometimes you gotta just trust your eye and tweak as you go.

Sometimes you gotta just trust your eye and tweak as you go.

That’s pretty much what I ended up doing on my last roof job. My house is older, and after a couple storms, nothing lines up like it should. Chalk lines help, but I still get spots where the ridge cap just looks off from the yard. I’ve tried those pre-bent caps too - never seem to sit right, especially if the decking’s a bit warped. Has anyone found a brand or style that actually fits well on uneven ridges? Or is it just always a bit of a compromise on these older roofs?

Chalk lines help, but I still get spots where the ridge cap just looks off from the yard.

Yeah, that’s just the reality with older roofs. I’ve tried a bunch of different ridge caps - none of them really hide a wavy deck. Sometimes I’ll hand-bend the caps a bit more to match the shape, but it’s always a compromise. Honestly, I think it comes down to making it look as straight as possible from the ground and not stressing about perfection. Pre-bent ones are never a perfect fit if your ridge is uneven.

- Noticed the same thing on a few of my older properties. Even with chalk lines, the ridge cap just never sits perfectly straight if the decking’s got dips or humps.
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“Pre-bent ones are never a perfect fit if your ridge is uneven.”

Tried shimming under the cap once with some scrap shingles - honestly, it was more trouble than it was worth. Ended up with weird bumps and had to rip a section off and start over. Maybe I just don’t have the magic touch. I’m with you, though: if it keeps the water out and doesn’t look like a rollercoaster from the street, I call it a win. My wallet definitely appreciates not having to redo the whole ridge.

if it keeps the water out and doesn’t look like a rollercoaster from the street, I call it a win. My wallet definitely appreciates not having to redo the whole ridge.

I get where you’re coming from, but I’d argue that shimming under the cap can actually be a solid fix - if you use the right material and keep things consistent. Scrap shingles are pretty thick, so they can create those bumps you mentioned. I tried using roofing felt as a shim on my place last fall. It’s thinner and easier to shape, so I didn’t end up with any weird humps along the ridge.

I’m in a colder climate, so keeping everything tight is a must or else ice gets in and makes a mess. If you’re dealing with uneven decking or old rafters, sometimes you have to build up one side just a bit. But yeah, if it looks wavy from the street, that’s not great either.

Guess it depends on how picky you are about appearance versus just keeping things watertight. For me, a little extra prep was worth not having to worry about leaks down the line.

I hear you on the “rollercoaster” look - nothing like a wavy ridge to make your house look like it’s auditioning for a theme park. I’ve had to shim spots with felt too, especially on older buildings where nothing’s square. It’s not glamorous, but it beats chasing leaks every spring thaw. Sometimes you just gotta pick your battles: curb appeal or sanity (and a dry attic).

Sometimes you just gotta pick your battles: curb appeal or sanity (and a dry attic).

Honestly, I get wanting to avoid leaks, but I’m not a fan of shimming with felt. It’s a quick fix, but it can compress over time and you’re back to square one. I’ve had better luck ripping up the high spots and planing them down, even if it’s more work up front. Keeps the ridge straighter and looks way cleaner in the long run. Just my two cents - sometimes the extra effort pays off.

That’s fair - planing down the high spots is a pain, but you only have to do it once if you do it right. I’ve tried the felt trick before and, like you said, it settles and the ridge gets wavy again. It’s tempting to go for the quick fix when you’re tired and just want to be done, but I’ve always regretted it later. Hang in there... the extra time now saves a headache down the road.

I hear you on the temptation to just slap something down and call it good, especially when your arms are dead from hauling shingles all day. I tried the fast way once - used extra felt and hoped for the best. Sure enough, a year later that ridge looked like a roller coaster. Ended up redoing it anyway. Taking the time to plane things flat up front really does make a difference, even if it’s a drag in the moment.

Been there, done that - rushing through the ridge install just to get it over with. Last summer, I figured I’d save myself some time and skipped leveling out a couple of high spots on the ridge. Looked fine at first, but by the end of winter, the shingles were all wavy and a couple even cracked. Ended up pulling half of them off and redoing it anyway. Lesson learned.

Here’s what’s worked for me since: First, I always check the ridge for humps or dips and use a hand plane or even a belt sander to even things out. Takes maybe an extra hour, but it’s worth it. Next, I snap a chalk line dead center so I don’t start drifting off course - easy to do when you’re tired. When laying the shingles, I overlap them just enough and make sure each one’s tight before nailing down. If you’re dealing with weird angles or an uneven roof deck, sometimes you’ve just got to shim it with a bit of scrap wood.

It’s a pain in the moment, but fixing it later is way worse. Trust me on that one...

That’s a solid rundown. I see so many issues crop up from folks skipping prep work, especially on older roofs where the ridge isn’t perfectly straight anymore. The wavy shingle thing is a classic - hard to spot at first but it’ll come back to haunt you once the weather settles in. I’ve inspected plenty of jobs where minor unevenness led to premature wear or even leaks right along the ridge.

One thing I’d add: ventilation at the ridge can get overlooked when folks are focused on shingle alignment. If the ridge vent isn’t installed flush because of humps or dips, you can end up with gaps that let water or critters in, or just reduce airflow. I’ve seen some creative fixes after the fact - lots of caulk and foam, but it’s never as clean as doing it right from the start.

Curious if you’ve run into issues with fastener placement on those uneven spots? Sometimes nails don’t seat properly if there’s a dip under the shingle, which can lead to loose tabs or even blow-offs in high wind. I usually recommend folks double-check nail depth and angle, especially if they had to shim or sand down the ridge.

Also, do you find certain shingle brands are more forgiving when it comes to slight imperfections in the ridge? Some seem stiffer and less likely to settle in over time, while others will sort of "mold" themselves a bit better. Wondering if anyone else has noticed that, or if it’s just luck of the draw with batches.

Always amazed how much time you can save later by spending an extra hour up front... though I’ll admit, sometimes after a long day, it’s tempting to just slap them down and call it good.

- Oh man, the “wavy ridge” is the story of my life with these old buildings. I swear, every time I think I’ve got a straight line, I step back and it’s like a rollercoaster up there.
- Fastener placement on uneven spots? Yep, been there. Had a guy once who thought he could just “muscle” the nails in - ended up with half of them sticking out like little hats. Wind caught those tabs and we had shingle confetti after the first storm. Now I tell folks: if you feel resistance, don’t force it - shim or sand it down, or you’ll be chasing leaks for years.
- Ventilation is another one that bites people later. I’ve seen more than a few “creative” fixes too... One guy used expanding foam to fill a gap and ended up blocking half the vent. Squirrels loved it though - free insulation for their new penthouse suite.
- As for shingle brands, I’ve noticed CertainTeed seems to flex a bit more on weird ridges compared to GAF, which always feels stiffer to me. But honestly, sometimes it’s just luck of the batch - had one delivery where every shingle was warped like a potato chip.
- Totally agree about spending extra time up front. Every time I try to rush it because I’m hungry or tired, something comes back to haunt me (usually in the form of an angry tenant calling about a drip right over their bed).
- One trick that’s saved me: run a chalk line even if the ridge looks straight by eye. It’s amazing how much your brain lies to you when you’re tired and sweaty.
- And yeah... after 10 hours on a roof in July, “good enough” starts sounding pretty tempting. But then you remember who has to answer the phone when it leaks.

Anyway, if anyone figures out how to make 100-year-old rafters line up perfectly without tearing off half the roof, let me know. Until then, guess we’ll keep shimming and hoping for mild weather...

That “rollercoaster ridge” feeling is way too familiar. I’ve spent hours trying to get things to look right, only to realize the old rafters have a mind of their own. Honestly, it’s easy to get discouraged, but you’re spot on - taking the extra time up front really does pay off. I used to think shimming was just for pros, but after chasing leaks for a whole winter, I’m a believer. Chalk lines have saved my sanity more than once too. It’s not about perfection with these old houses - it’s about making it work and knowing you did your best.

It’s not about perfection with these old houses - it’s about making it work and knowing you did your best.

That really hits home. I’ve dealt with some funky ridges where nothing lined up, no matter how many chalk lines I snapped. Honestly, sometimes you just have to accept a little “character” in the roofline. Shimming helped me a ton too, especially on those dips where the ridge just wanted to wander. I’ve found that using flexible ridge shingles (the kind that bend easier) can help hide some of the unevenness. Not perfect, but definitely keeps the leaks out and looks decent from the street.

Man, I hear you on the “character” thing. My place is a 1920s bungalow and I swear the roofline has more waves than the local pool. I used to stress about every little dip or spot where things didn’t line up, but after a while you just realize - nobody’s climbing up there with a level except you. From the street? Looks fine. From the neighbor’s window? Still fine. Only my own perfectionist brain notices.

I tried those flexible ridge shingles too, and honestly, they’re a lifesaver for weird angles and bumps. The first time I did it, I was fighting with those stiff ones and cursing whoever invented them. Switched to the bendy kind and suddenly it was like, “Oh, this is what sanity feels like.” Shimming is another trick I wish I’d learned sooner - just enough to even things out without making it obvious.

One thing I’ll say though: don’t get too carried away hiding every imperfection. Sometimes if you try to force everything straight, it just draws more attention to the weird spots. A little wobble here and there just adds to the old-house charm (or at least that’s what I tell myself when I’m done).

And leaks... yeah, that’s where I draw the line. As long as water stays out and nothing’s blowing off in a storm, I call it a win. Perfection is overrated anyway - especially when you’re working with lumber that’s older than your grandparents.

If anyone ever figures out how to make these old ridges perfectly straight without tearing off half the roof, let me know. Until then, I’ll be over here embracing “good enough” and hoping nobody brings binoculars to my block.

don’t get too carried away hiding every imperfection. Sometimes if you try to force everything straight, it just draws more attention to the weird spots.

I get where you’re coming from, but sometimes a little extra effort pays off - especially on those really visible ridges. I’ve found that snapping a chalk line and following it, even when the old wood’s wonky, can help keep things looking intentional instead of accidental. If you shim, just don’t overdo it or you’ll end up with a ridge that’s more rollercoaster than roofline. I’m not saying chase perfection, but a bit of planning up front saves headaches later - especially if your roof gets a lot of sun and shadows that highlight every bump.

If you shim, just don’t overdo it or you’ll end up with a ridge that’s more rollercoaster than roofline.

That’s the truth. I’ve seen some ridges so wavy they could make you seasick from the street. Honestly, a little “character” is fine, but if the sun hits it just right, every bump and dip shows up like a neon sign. I usually tell folks: aim for straight-ish, but don’t stress every tiny dip unless you want to drive yourself nuts. Perfection’s overrated - unless you’re selling to an architect.