Moss on the north side? That’s just part of the ecosystem at this point...
I get the “ecosystem” thing, but I’d be careful letting moss settle in too much. It’s not just cosmetic—over time, it can lift shingles and trap moisture. Had a client a while back who figured it was harmless until a leak cropped up right under a mossy patch.
On the underlayment front, I’ve actually gone a different route: self-adhered membrane. It’s pricier than recycled stuff, but for steep pitches and unpredictable weather, I’ve found it outlasts both felt and synthetics. The install’s fussier (especially if temps drop), but it bonds tight and shrugs off ice dams.
Ventilation’s huge, like you said. Still, I’d keep an eye on that recycled layer after a few more winters. Some of those materials break down faster than advertised, especially if you get wild temp swings. If you do see any soft spots or weird smells, might be worth pulling up a corner to check for hidden mold. Just my two cents—every roof’s got its quirks.
- Seen moss cause trouble after a big hailstorm—shingles looked fine but water crept under where the moss was thick. Ended up with rot that took months to show.
- Self-adhered membrane’s been solid for me, especially on roofs that get hammered by wind-driven rain. Only downside is it’s a pain in cold weather, like you said.
- Tried recycled underlayment once. Looked good at first, but after two freeze-thaw cycles, it started curling at the edges. Noticed a musty smell in the attic—turned out moisture got trapped.
- Ventilation’s non-negotiable. Even the best underlayment won’t save you if air can’t move.
- Every roof’s different, but I’d rather pay more upfront than deal with hidden damage later... learned that the hard way.
Ventilation’s non-negotiable. Even the best underlayment won’t save you if air can’t move.
Can’t argue with that, but I’ve seen plenty of houses where even “good” ventilation didn’t prevent issues—especially with self-adhered membranes. They seal so tight, any leak or trapped moisture has nowhere to go. Had a client last year with ice dams, and even after we improved the venting, the underlayment had puckered and let water back up under the shingles. Not saying they’re bad, just that sometimes the “premium” option hides problems until it’s too late. Sometimes old-fashioned felt, if installed right and kept dry, outlasts the fancy stuff.
Sometimes old-fashioned felt, if installed right and kept dry, outlasts the fancy stuff.
I get where you’re coming from, but I’ve had the opposite luck. Tried felt on my garage roof a few years back—thought I did everything by the book, but after two winters (I’m in Michigan), it started to wrinkle and tear up near the eaves. Maybe it’s just our freeze/thaw cycles, but it didn’t hold up at all. Switched to a synthetic roll on the house last summer and it’s been solid so far, even with some pretty wild storms.
I do agree about self-adhered membranes being a double-edged sword. They’re great for stopping leaks, but if anything gets trapped underneath, you’re basically stuck until you rip everything off. Still, I’d rather deal with that than have water sneaking in every spring. Guess it depends on your climate and how much you trust your install job... For me, the newer stuff’s been worth the extra cost.
I’ve had similar issues with felt, especially in spots where snow piles up or ice dams form. It just doesn’t seem to hold up to the freeze/thaw cycles here (I’m in northern Ohio). The synthetic stuff costs more up front, but I haven’t had to patch anything since switching. Still, I do wonder if it’ll last as long as they claim—20+ years seems optimistic. For now, though, I’d rather pay a bit extra than deal with leaks every spring.