Yeah, I totally get skipping it on a shed—mine’s basically a glorified lawnmower garage, so I didn’t bother either. But when I did my main roof, I caved and put the drip edge on. Step one: grumble about the extra cost. Step two: realize it’s not that pricey compared to fixing rotten fascia later. Around here (lots of rain), I figure it’s cheap insurance. If you’re in a dry spot or have a huge overhang, maybe you can get away without it... but I’d rather not tempt fate on the house.
I hear you on the “cheap insurance” angle. I used to think drip edge was overkill, but after seeing what a few seasons of rain did to some older properties—fascia boards warped, paint peeling, even a little rot—I’m sold. Out here in the Midwest, we get wild weather swings, so I just factor it in now. Curious, has anyone actually had issues skipping it on a house with deep overhangs? Or is it mostly a problem when water runs right down the fascia?
I used to think deep overhangs would save me the hassle, too. My old ranch had about a two-foot overhang, and for a while, it seemed fine without drip edge. But after a few years, I started seeing black streaks on the fascia, and eventually, the paint just bubbled up. Turns out, wind-driven rain can still sneak under there, especially with those Midwest storms. Not as bad as houses with barely any overhang, but still enough to be a pain. If I ever redo a roof again, I’m not skipping it—cheap insurance is right.
That metal strip—drip edge—really does make a difference, even with big overhangs. I’ve inspected a lot of homes where folks skipped it, thinking the extra roof length would keep water off the fascia. But wind-driven rain, ice dams, and even capillary action can still pull water back under the shingles. Over time, you’ll see rot or paint issues just like you described. It’s a small upfront cost compared to replacing fascia or dealing with hidden rot down the line. Even on newer builds, I flag it if it’s missing. Some codes require it now, too, depending on your area.
