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Figuring out roof support: choosing between rafters and trusses

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Posts: 16
(@scottseeker594)
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I hear you on the attic storage thing—trusses really do limit what you can stash up there. I looked into reinforcing mine a couple years back because I wanted to put up some shelves and maybe a few heavier bins. Got a couple quotes from local contractors, and honestly, the cost to beef up the trusses with extra lumber and supports was way more than I expected. One guy said it’d be almost as much as just redoing the whole roof with rafters, which felt like overkill since I’m not finishing the space. In the end, I just stuck with the lightweight stuff and called it good.

Insulation’s another headache. I tried blown-in cellulose last fall, and while it was a mess to install, it did help even things out. I’ve heard it can settle, but so far, it’s holding up. Might need a top-up in a few years, but that’s better than freezing in the bedrooms.

On solar, I had to get an engineer to check my trusses before the panels went up. The installer wouldn’t touch it otherwise. Turns out, my roof could handle the extra weight, but I’ve heard stories where folks needed extra bracing. Probably depends on the age and design of your trusses.


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Posts: 9
(@andrewr54)
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That’s the thing with trusses—people assume you can just slap a few boards up there and suddenly it’s a storage space, but the engineering doesn’t work like that. I’ve seen folks overload those bottom chords with boxes and then wonder why they’re getting cracks in the ceiling below. It’s not just about weight, either; point loads from shelving can mess with the whole structure if you’re not careful. Honestly, unless you’re ready to spend real money on a proper retrofit, sticking to lightweight stuff is probably the safest bet.

Blown-in cellulose is decent for insulation, but yeah, it settles over time. I’ve poked my head into plenty of attics where what started as 12 inches ends up more like 8 after a few years. Still better than nothing, but worth checking every so often.

Solar’s another can of worms. Trusses built in the last 30 years usually handle panel weight fine, but older ones—or anything custom—can be dicey. Did your engineer mention anything about snow load or wind uplift? Around here, those two factors seem to trip people up more than just dead weight from panels.


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nturner42
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(@nturner42)
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I’ve seen the same thing with attic storage—my neighbor loaded up his truss attic with old paint cans and Christmas stuff, then called me over when his ceiling started sagging. It’s wild how little weight it actually takes to mess things up. I’m curious, has anyone here tried adding green roof layers on top of trusses? I’ve always wondered if the extra live load from soil and plants is just too much for standard residential trusses, or if there’s a workaround that doesn’t involve a total rebuild.


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paul_echo
Posts: 13
(@paul_echo)
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- Green roofs are cool, but yeah, standard trusses usually aren’t designed for that kind of extra weight.
- Even a few inches of soil plus water retention adds up fast—way more than just storage boxes.
- I looked into this a while back... engineer said you’d need to beef up the structure or use super-lightweight green roof systems (like trays with shallow soil).
- Not sure there’s a real shortcut unless you’re okay with just a few planters instead of a full layer.
- If you’re set on it, definitely get a structural check first—my neighbor skipped that, and his ceiling cracked after a heavy rain.


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peanutj78
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(@peanutj78)
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I tried adding a green roof to my shed last year—thought I could just layer on some soil trays and call it good. Turns out, even with lightweight trays, the weight was way more than I expected after a rain. Ended up reinforcing the rafters with extra bracing underneath. Would’ve been a mess if I hadn’t caught it early. Definitely not something I’d risk on the main house without a pro’s opinion.


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