Roofing discussions and local services.

Why some roof coatings actually make things worse

111 replies
 

Join the conversation

Share your experience or ask a follow-up question.

mobile_marley

I get where you’re coming from - prepping a flat roof for coating does sound like a pain, and the “miracle fix” vibe is hard to trust. But I’m not sure it’s always as risky as it seems. The moisture thing is definitely a legit concern, though. I’ve seen guys use moisture meters, but even then, you can’t be 100% sure you caught every spot, especially if there’s old patchwork or layers underneath. That’s probably the biggest gamble.

Still, I’ve watched a few coatings go down on roofs that weren’t perfect, and sometimes they actually held up better than expected. One place I helped with had some minor pitting and a couple of old repairs - nothing major, but not pristine either. We did a ton of cleaning and drying (like, leaf blowers and heat guns for hours), then put down a silicone coating. Two years later, it’s still holding tight. No bubbles or peeling, even after a rough winter.

On the flip side, I’ve also seen coatings fail fast when people skipped steps or underestimated how much prep matters. If there’s hidden moisture, yeah, you’ll probably get blisters or peeling eventually. But I wonder if it’s less about the product and more about how obsessive you are with the prep? Maybe coatings just aren’t forgiving if you try to cut corners.

I guess my question is: is any roof repair really “worth it” if the base is already in rough shape? Like, would a new membrane or even a tear-off be safer long-term? Coatings seem best if your roof’s still got some life left - otherwise, maybe it’s just delaying the inevitable. Curious if anyone’s had luck using coatings as a stopgap on a roof that was already borderline...


Reply

I totally get the temptation to just slap a coating on and hope for the best, especially when a full tear-off feels like setting your wallet on fire. My old place had a patchwork flat roof - some spots were so sketchy I joked about needing a canoe in the living room. We did a basic elastomeric coating as a stopgap, knowing it wasn’t a forever fix. It bought us maybe two more years, but yeah, by the end there were bubbles and some leaks creeping back in. For me, it was worth it just to spread out the cost, but I wouldn’t count on miracles if the roof’s already toast. Sometimes you’re just buying time... which isn’t always a bad thing if your budget’s tight.


Reply
comics_tigger

I get wanting to buy time, but I kinda regret going the coating route on my old shed roof. It actually trapped moisture underneath, and when I finally tore it off, the decking was in way worse shape. If the roof’s already soft or spongy, sometimes a coating just hides bigger problems. Maybe worth poking around for soft spots before slapping anything on.


Reply
surfing_linda

That’s exactly what happened to my uncle’s garage roof. He thought a coating would buy him a few years, but it just made the rot worse underneath. I’m curious - did you notice any leaks before you coated it, or was it just old and worn? Sometimes I wonder if people use coatings as a band-aid when the roof’s already toast. Wouldn’t it be better to just patch the bad spots first, or is that just wishful thinking?


Reply
karenjackson916

I tried a roof coating on my old shed last fall, thinking it’d help with the musty smell and maybe stop a couple drips. Didn’t see any leaks before, but after winter, the boards underneath felt even softer. Makes me wonder if I just trapped moisture in. Maybe patching would’ve been smarter, but I honestly thought the coating was a shortcut.


Reply
williammartinez498

Been there, done that - tried to “shortcut” a leaky shed roof with a can of miracle goo.

“Makes me wonder if I just trapped moisture in.”
That’s the kicker. If the boards were already a bit damp or the coating didn’t fully seal, it’s like wrapping leftovers in plastic and leaving them out - just gets mushier. I’ve seen folks slap on coatings thinking it’ll fix everything, but sometimes it just locks in the problem. Patching or even just letting things dry out first usually works better, especially with old wood. Live and learn, right?


Reply
sophiepaws589

I get where you’re coming from, but honestly, I’ve had decent luck with those coatings - at least as a stopgap. On my old garage roof, I used a can of that rubbery stuff after a rainstorm and it held up for a year. Maybe I just got lucky with the timing, but sometimes you gotta do what you can until you’re ready for a full fix. That said, yeah, if there’s moisture trapped underneath, you’re probably just asking for trouble down the line.


Reply
luna_cloud

I get the appeal - quick fix, cheap, and you feel like you did something. But I’ve seen way too many roofs where those coatings just locked in moisture and made rot way worse. Sometimes it buys you time, but it’s a gamble. If you’re lucky, fine... but if not, you’re looking at mold or warped decking before you know it. I always tell people: if you can see or feel dampness, don’t seal it up. Let it dry out first, even if that means living with a tarp for a bit.


Reply
waffles_parker

Couldn’t agree more about the risk of trapping moisture. I learned that lesson the hard way a few years ago - put a reflective coating on my old shed roof, thinking I’d extend its life. Looked great for a few months, but when I finally checked underneath, the plywood was soft and starting to blacken. Turns out, there was just enough hidden moisture that the coating locked it in and basically turned the whole thing into a petri dish.

One thing I’ve noticed is a lot of these coatings are marketed as “breathable,” but in practice, that seems hit or miss. Maybe on a perfectly dry, well-prepped surface they work as advertised, but if there’s any doubt about dampness, it’s just not worth the risk. In humid climates especially, I’d rather deal with an ugly tarp for a season than have to rip out rotten decking later.

If you’re set on using a coating, moisture meters are a good investment. They’re not perfect, but at least you get some idea of what’s going on under the surface.


Reply
carol_cloud

One thing I’ve noticed is a lot of these coatings are marketed as “breathable,” but in practice, that seems hit or miss.

That’s been my experience too, especially with older roofs where you just can’t be sure what’s lurking under the surface. I’ve seen plenty of “breathable” coatings slapped on, and then a year later I’m poking at mushy plywood with my screwdriver. It’s like the stuff only breathes when it wants to.

Honestly, I’d rather see a roof with a few ugly patches or even, like you said, a tarp, than one that’s been sealed up tight over questionable decking. The worst is when folks think they’re buying themselves time, but really they’re just hiding a slow-motion disaster. Had a client once who used a fancy elastomeric coating on a low-slope addition - looked great for about six months, but by the next spring we were pulling up whole sheets of blackened OSB. Not fun.

Moisture meters help, but they’re not magic. Sometimes you just gotta trust your gut (and your nose - musty smell never lies). Better safe than sorry when it comes to trapping moisture up there.


Reply
cars470

That’s a good point about moisture meters - they’re handy, but not foolproof. I’ve run into situations where the readings seemed fine, but after pulling up a few shingles, the decking told a different story. Does anyone here feel like certain roof types or climates make these “breathable” coatings more risky? I see way more problems with them in humid areas than dry ones.


Reply
pets315

I get where you’re coming from about humid climates, but I’ve actually seen “breathable” coatings work out okay in some Gulf Coast installs - at least when the attic ventilation is dialed in and the decking’s in good shape. The problems I’ve noticed seem to pop up more when there’s already hidden moisture or poor airflow under the roof. Sometimes it’s less about the coating itself and more about what’s going on underneath. Maybe it’s just luck, but I haven’t seen as many issues on steep-slope metal roofs, even in muggy weather. Flat roofs though...that’s a different story.


Reply

I’ve been down this road with my own place (asphalt shingles, low slope, Houston area), and honestly, I learned the hard way that the prep work matters way more than the coating itself. Here’s what I’d do differently if I had to start over:

First, check for any signs of trapped moisture - dark spots, soft decking, or even a musty smell in the attic. If there’s any doubt, fix that before even thinking about coatings. Next, make sure your attic ventilation is actually working. I thought mine was fine until I realized one of the soffit vents was blocked by insulation... not great.

When it comes to coatings, I get the appeal of “breathable” ones, but if the roof’s already got issues underneath, it’s like putting a band-aid on a leaky pipe. On my neighbor’s flat roof, the coating just made things worse because water was already getting in from somewhere else.

If you’re on a budget like me, I’d say: inspect, repair, ventilate, then coat - always in that order. Otherwise, you might just be covering up a bigger problem.


Reply
drebel76

I get where you’re coming from about prep work being key, but I’d push back a bit on the idea that coatings are just a “band-aid” if there’s any underlying issue. There are some newer elastomeric coatings that can actually help manage minor moisture vapor, especially on low-slope roofs in humid places like Houston. I’ve seen a couple of jobs where the coating bought homeowners a few extra years, even when the decking wasn’t perfect - though yeah, it’s not a fix for major leaks or rot.

On the ventilation side, I’ve noticed that a lot of folks underestimate how much attic airflow matters for shingle life. But sometimes, even with good vents, the Texas sun just cooks everything. In those cases, a reflective coating can drop attic temps by 10-15 degrees (I measured it once with an IR gun), which seemed to slow down shingle curling.

Not saying coatings are magic, but in some situations - especially when full tear-off isn’t in the budget - they can be more than just a cover-up. Just gotta know what you’re working with and set expectations.


Reply
joseph_echo5271

That’s interesting about the reflective coatings actually making a difference in attic temps. Did you notice any issues with peeling or bubbling after a couple summers? I’ve heard some coatings can trap moisture if the decking isn’t totally dry, but maybe that’s just with the cheaper stuff.


Reply
music_ray

Peeling and bubbling usually come down to surface prep and moisture, like you mentioned. I’ve seen a few attics where folks rushed the job - decking wasn’t fully dry, or they skipped primer - and the coating started lifting after a year or two. Higher-end coatings seem less prone, but even those can have issues if the wood’s damp underneath. If you’re ever redoing it, I’d check moisture with a meter first and let things dry out, even if it means waiting for a stretch of dry weather. Makes a big difference in the long run.


Reply

Honestly, I’ve seen guys slap coatings on plywood that was just barely dry to the touch, thinking it’d be fine. Never is. Even the pricier coatings won’t save you if there’s hidden moisture or dust left behind. It’s wild how much a $30 moisture meter can save you in headaches down the line... I’d argue prep is 80% of the battle - coating’s just the final layer.


Reply

I’ll admit, I used to think a fancy coating would cover a multitude of sins. Turns out, nope. Last summer I rushed through patching a spot on my shed roof - figured the wood felt dry enough, slapped the stuff on, and called it good. Fast forward two months and the coating bubbled like a pancake. Had to scrape it all off and start over. Now I’m religious about checking for moisture... but I still don’t fully trust those cheap meters either. Sometimes it’s just gut feeling and patience, which isn’t easy when you’re staring at rain in the forecast.


Reply
nalanaturalist

Had a similar mess with my garage roof a couple years back - thought I could outsmart the weather and rushed the primer on damp plywood. Ended up with peeling and soft spots. Now I use a combo of meter, back-of-hand, and just waiting longer than feels reasonable. Those coatings really trap any hidden moisture... patience is key, even if it means tarping for a week.


Reply
dexplorer23

That’s the thing - most folks don’t realize how unforgiving those coatings are if there’s even a hint of moisture left. I’ve seen it go sideways on both DIY and pro jobs. Honestly, I think a lot of these “miracle” coatings are oversold, especially on older roofs or questionable substrates. If you’re not 100% sure it’s bone dry, you’re just sealing in problems. I’m a big fan of breathable membranes for that reason... they let trapped moisture escape instead of locking it in. It’s not always the cheapest route, but long-term it saves a ton of headaches.


Reply
Scroll to Top