You’re spot on about the thermal draw—people underestimate how much air those fans can pull from the house if the attic floor isn’t sealed up tight. I’ve run into a few jobs where folks thought more power meant better cooling, but ended up with higher bills and drafty rooms. Have you ever tried using a smoke pencil or IR camera to track down those leaks? Sometimes it’s surprising where the air finds its way through. I agree, passive airflow gets overlooked, especially in older homes with chopped-up rooflines. Curious if you’ve seen any difference in performance between ridge vents and box vents when paired with good soffit intake?
I’ve used a smoke pencil a couple times—honestly, it’s wild how much air sneaks through spots you’d never expect, like around light fixtures or even old plumbing chases. Haven’t tried an IR camera yet, but I hear it’s a game changer for finding those hidden leaks. As for ridge vs box vents, I’ve noticed ridge vents seem to give more even airflow, especially when the soffit intake is solid. Box vents can work, but on chopped-up roofs or with weird wind patterns, they don’t always pull as well. Still, every house is different... sometimes you gotta mix and match to get it right.
That smoke pencil is a real eye-opener, right? I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve found leaks around attic hatches or even recessed lights—places folks never think to check. IR cameras are handy, but honestly, you can get pretty far just being methodical with the basics.
On vents, I’m with you that ridge vents usually give more consistent results, but only if the soffit vents are actually clear. I’ve seen a lot of insulation blocking those intakes, which kills airflow no matter what’s up top. Sometimes people add more box vents thinking it’ll help, but if the intake’s choked off, it doesn’t matter much.
One thing I always suggest: before adding or swapping vents, check for baffles in the attic and make sure nothing’s blocking air at the eaves. Then look for signs of moisture or mold—those are dead giveaways something’s off. Every roof is its own puzzle, especially with weird dormers or valleys. Mixing vent types can work, but it’s easy to accidentally short-circuit airflow if you’re not careful.
Trial and error’s part of it... but starting with a good inspection saves a lot of headaches down the road.
Yeah, I’m with you on the soffit vents—people forget about those all the time. I’ve seen jobs where they added a fancy ridge vent, but the insulation was jammed right up to the eaves, so nothing moved. One thing I’d add: sometimes those old houses have painted-over or even blocked soffit screens, so it’s not just insulation. I always check for airflow with a flashlight and a bit of patience. It’s wild how much difference a clear path makes, especially in humid climates.
That’s spot on about the soffit screens—sometimes it’s not even insulation, just years of paint or even spiderwebs clogging things up. I’ve crawled into more than one attic thinking airflow was fine, only to find those vents basically sealed shut. One trick I picked up: if you can’t see daylight through the soffits from inside, odds are you’ve got a problem. In my place (humid summers, lots of trees), just clearing out those little blockages dropped the attic temp by a good 10 degrees. Makes a huge difference for shingle life and AC bills.
