Yeah, those touch-up pens are a bit hit or miss. I’ve tried ‘em on job sites and honestly, they’re fine for a quick fix but don’t expect miracles on raw edges. Spray paint or even a little brush-on primer seems to hold up better, especially if you’re dealing with a lot of exposed cuts. Rust creeps in fast if you skip it—been there, done that, had to go back and redo a whole section once.
Yeah, those touch-up pens are a bit hit or miss. I’ve tried ‘em on job sites and honestly, they’re fine for a quick fix but don’t expect miracles on raw edges. Spray paint or even a little brush-on primer seems to hold up better, especially if you’re dealing with a lot of exposed cuts. Rust creeps in fast if you skip it—been there, done that, had to go back and redo a whole section once.
That’s the truth about rust sneaking in. I remember one job after a nasty hailstorm—customer wanted to save a few bucks and just use the pen on all the cut edges. Looked fine for about six months, then we started seeing those telltale orange streaks running down the panels. Ended up replacing three sheets and patching up the rest. Lesson learned: if you’re working with exposed cuts, especially on cheaper panels, don’t skimp on the primer or paint.
I’ve found the spray cans work better than the pens, but you gotta mask off everything or you’ll end up with overspray on the next sheet. Sometimes I’ll use a little artist’s brush and dab on some oil-based primer before color—takes longer but it sticks way better, especially in our humid summers. Not saying the pens are useless, but they’re more for scratches than actual cut metal.
As for where to buy sheets, I’ve had mixed luck with the big box stores. They’re convenient but sometimes you get panels that have been sitting outside too long—already got surface rust or dings before you even start. Local supply yards usually have fresher stock and sometimes they’ll even cut to length for you, which saves a ton of hassle if your roof isn’t standard size.
One more thing: if you’re anywhere near salt air or get a lot of storms like we do, it’s worth asking about upgraded coatings. Galvalume holds up way better than plain galvanized in my experience—costs more upfront but saves you from chasing rust spots every year.
Anyway, just my two cents from patching up after too many storms...
Local supply yards usually have fresher stock and sometimes they’ll even cut to length for you, which saves a ton of hassle if your roof isn’t standard size.
That’s been my experience too. I tried the big box route first—figured it’d be easier since I’m new to all this—but half the panels had little dents or scratches before I even loaded them up. Ended up returning a few and just going to a local yard like you mentioned. They actually let me check the stack before buying, which was a game changer.
I’ve got a low-pitch roof and was worried about leaks, so I went with galvalume after reading about it here. It cost more, but so far (knock on wood) no rust issues, even after a pretty wet spring. The only thing that tripped me up was figuring out how much overlap to use—some folks say one rib, others two. Did you run into that? Wondering if it really makes a difference long-term or if I’m overthinking it...
The only thing that tripped me up was figuring out how much overlap to use—some folks say one rib, others two. Did you run into that? Wondering if it really makes a difference long-term or if I’m overthinking it...
You’re definitely not overthinking it—panel overlap is one of those details that can make or break your roof’s performance, especially on low-pitch installs. It’s great you went with galvalume, too. In my experience, it holds up way better than painted steel in wet climates.
On the overlap question, there’s a bit of debate out there, and part of it comes down to panel profile and manufacturer instructions. Most common exposed-fastener panels are designed for a single rib overlap, and that’s usually sufficient if your roof pitch is at least 3:12 and you’re using butyl tape or sealant at the seams. But once you get into lower pitches—say, under 2:12—I’ve seen leaks develop unless you double up the overlap or add extra sealant. Some suppliers even require two ribs for warranty coverage on really shallow roofs. It’s not always in the sales literature, either, so I’d check the fine print if you haven’t already.
I’ve had a couple jobs where the homeowner insisted on just one rib (trying to save material), but after a season of heavy rain, we were back patching leaks at the seams. Learned my lesson there... Now I always err on the side of caution and go with two ribs or at least beef up the sealant if there’s any doubt. It’s a bit more work up front, but it’s way less hassle than chasing leaks later.
Letting you check the stack before buying is a huge plus. I wish more yards did that—nothing worse than hauling home scratched panels and having to swap them out. Sounds like you’re making smart choices. If you made it through a wet spring with no issues, you’re probably in good shape, but keeping an eye on those seams each year is never a bad idea. Sometimes a little extra attention now saves a lot of headaches down the road.
Sometimes a little extra attention now saves a lot of headaches down the road.
Couldn’t agree more with that. I’ve seen a lot of “minor” seam issues turn into big problems after a couple freeze-thaw cycles, especially on older installs where folks skimped on overlap or sealant. One thing I’d add—if you’re in an area with a lot of wind-driven rain, even a textbook install can get tested. I always recommend folks check for any signs of wicking or rust at the seams during annual maintenance. It’s easy to miss until it’s not.
