Finally tackled that metal edging thing on my roof

That rubber stuff is a classic case of “looks easy on YouTube, turns into a weekend project in real life.” I tried it on a rusty shed roof last fall - thought I’d be done by lunch, but nope. By the time I finished scraping and cleaning, I was ready to just slap duct tape on it and call it a day. Honestly, for small spots, I’ve had better luck just hitting it with rust converter and paint, too. The rubber might be overkill unless you’re dealing with a whole section or some gnarly leaks.

- Been there with the “weekend project” turning into a saga. That rubber stuff is a pain if you’re not dealing with a big area.
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“By the time I finished scraping and cleaning, I was ready to just slap duct tape on it and call it a day.”

“By the time I finished scraping and cleaning, I was ready to just slap duct tape on it and call it a day.”

Totally get this. I’ve definitely hit that “good enough” wall on projects, especially when costs start creeping up. I’ve used the eco-friendly metal paint too, and it held up surprisingly well through two winters. Has anyone tried those spray-on sealers for tiny leaks? Wondering if they’re worth the few bucks or just another gimmick.

I’ve seen those spray-on sealers all over late-night TV, but honestly, I’m a bit skeptical. Maybe they’re fine for a quick patch, but I worry they just mask the problem instead of actually sealing it up for good. Had a tenant try one on a gutter joint - looked okay for a few months, then started leaking again after the first freeze/thaw cycle. For small spots, I still lean toward a proper sealant and some patience, even if it’s a pain. Anyone else run into issues with those spray fixes in cold weather?

Had a similar situation last winter - tenant used one of those spray sealers on a flashing seam. Looked fine until we hit a cold snap, then the leak came right back, maybe even worse. I’ve found that stuff just doesn’t flex enough when temps swing. Old-fashioned caulk and a putty knife might take longer, but at least it holds up through the seasons.

That’s been my experience too - those spray-on sealers seem like a quick fix, but they just don’t handle the freeze-thaw cycles. I had a patch job on a low-slope metal roof last year where the spray looked solid at first, but after a couple weeks of cold nights, water started sneaking in again. Switching to a good exterior caulk and taking the time to tool it in made all the difference. It’s not the fastest route, but I’d rather do it once and not worry every time the weather shifts. You’re definitely not alone dealing with these “miracle” products that don’t quite live up to the hype.

You’re definitely not alone dealing with these “miracle” products that don’t quite live up to the hype.

That’s the truth. I’ve seen so many folks get sold on those spray-on sealers, thinking it’s a one-and-done fix, but in my experience, they just don’t have the staying power - especially once winter rolls around and things start expanding and contracting. You nailed it about freeze-thaw cycles. That’s where most of the shortcuts get exposed.

Honestly, it sounds like you made the right call switching to exterior caulk and taking your time with it. I know it’s not as flashy or quick as spraying something on and calling it a day, but I’ve found that slow and steady is usually what keeps the water out for good. I’ve had similar situations - one time with a barn roof, actually - where I tried a spray sealer just because I was in a rush before a big storm rolled in. Looked perfect at first, but by the next month, I was back up there scraping off peels and chasing leaks again. Lesson learned.

One thing I’d add for anyone else reading: after applying caulk, tooling it in really does make a difference. It helps fill those tiny gaps you can’t see and gives the sealant a better bond to the metal. And if you’re working in colder temps, warming up the tube (just sitting it in warm water for a bit) makes it way easier to work with.

I do wonder sometimes if there’s ever going to be a “miracle” product that actually works long-term for this stuff, but until then, old-fashioned elbow grease seems to win out. You’re definitely not alone in wanting to do it right once instead of patching things over and over. It’s worth the extra effort not having to worry every time the weather turns nasty.

If nothing else, at least we get some good stories out of these repairs... even if they’re usually more funny in hindsight than at the time.

That’s a solid point about tooling the caulk - makes a world of difference, especially on metal. I’ve tried skipping that step before (out of pure laziness, not gonna lie) and paid for it later when water found its way in anyway. For anyone dealing with metal edging, I’d add: clean the surface like your mother-in-law’s coming to inspect it. Any dust or old sealant left behind just ruins the bond. And yeah, those “miracle” sprays... they’re more like temporary magic tricks than real solutions.

I’m curious - what kind of caulk did you end up using? I’ve noticed some brands just don’t stick well to metal, no matter how clean you get it. And yeah, those “miracle” sprays… ever seen one actually last through a full winter? I haven’t.

And yeah, those “miracle” sprays… ever seen one actually last through a full winter? I haven’t.

Same here - those sprays tend to peel or crack once temps drop. Curious, did you prep the metal with a primer first, or just clean and go? I’ve seen adhesion improve a bit with certain primers, but it’s hit or miss.

Those “miracle” sprays really do get hyped up, but I’ve yet to see one hold up through a full freeze-thaw cycle, especially on exposed metal. Even the ones that claim to be flexible seem to get brittle or start flaking once we hit January. I’ve tried a few brands over the years - some on gutters, some on flashing - and honestly, the only time I got halfway decent results was when I used a self-etching primer first. Even then, it was more “less bad” than actually good.

Prepping the metal makes a difference, but it’s not a silver bullet. I’ve always cleaned the surface thoroughly, sometimes even roughed it up with a scotch pad, then wiped it down with acetone. Primer helps with adhesion, but if there’s any moisture left or the temps drop too soon after application, you’re back to square one. The real kicker is that most of those sprays aren’t rated for the kind of temperature swings we get here - one day it’s 40°F, next day it’s single digits.

One thing I’ve noticed: the thicker you apply those coatings, the more likely they are to crack. Thin coats seem to flex a bit better, but then you’re reapplying every year anyway. I’ve started leaning toward mechanical fixes - like replacing sections or using proper flashing tape - over relying on any spray-on solution. It’s more work upfront, but less hassle long-term.

Funny enough, I had a tenant try one of those “as seen on TV” sprays on a rusty stair rail last fall. Looked great for about two months, then started bubbling and peeling off in sheets once the snow hit. Ended up having to strip it all off and repaint in spring.

If you’re dealing with exposed metal in our climate, I’d say don’t skip the primer, but also don’t expect miracles from any spray can. Sometimes old-school methods just hold up better when winter rolls around.

I get where you’re coming from, but I’ve actually had a bit more luck with the spray-on stuff - at least for short-term fixes.

“the only time I got halfway decent results was when I used a self-etching primer first. Even then, it was more ‘less bad’ than actually good.”

- Always wondered if the spray-on stuff would hold up in our damp climate - seems like it’s a gamble.
- For me, the real pain is finding the balance between cheap fixes and not having to redo it every year.
- Anyone tried using those rubberized coatings instead of primer + paint? Wondering if that’s worth the extra cost or just hype...

Rubberized coatings are kind of a mixed bag in my experience. I used one on a shed roof last fall - figured it’d be a good test before trying it on the house. Prep took longer than I expected (cleaning, drying, taping off edges), but application was pretty straightforward. It’s held up through a pretty wet winter so far, no peeling or leaks, but I’m still watching for any bubbling. Price-wise, it was more than primer + paint, but I’m hoping the extra layer means less touch-up next year. If you go that route, just make sure everything’s bone dry before you start... learned that the hard way.

Interesting to hear you had decent luck with the rubberized stuff - I've seen mixed results too, especially on older roofs with a lot of movement. Prep is a pain, yeah, and if there's even a hint of moisture trapped underneath, bubbling seems almost guaranteed after a season or two. One thing I've always wondered: did you look into any of the newer eco-friendly coatings? Some of those claim better flexibility and UV resistance without the VOCs, though the price tags can be pretty wild. I tried a “green” elastomeric on my workshop roof, mostly for the energy savings, and it’s held up surprisingly well through hail and a brutal summer. Makes me wonder if the added up-front cost is worth it in terms of lifespan and less frequent re-coating.

Did you notice any difference in the shed’s temperature or energy use after coating it? For me, the white finish made a bigger difference than I expected - curious if anyone else has seen that kind of payoff, or if it’s just marketing hype.

I’ve slapped a few of those “eco” coatings on sheds and garages, and honestly, the white ones do seem to drop the temp inside. My buddy joked his mower finally stopped sweating in July. Prep still sucks, but the cooler shed is real.

I get the appeal of those white coatings - seen a few folks swear by them for keeping sheds cooler. But I’ve also run into situations after a hailstorm where that “eco” layer chipped off in big patches, especially on older metal. Then you’re left with a patchwork mess and exposed spots that rust faster than you’d think. I’m more of a fan of adding a radiant barrier under the roof if you’re already doing repairs. It’s a pain to retrofit, but it holds up better long-term, at least in my experience. Prep is always a pain, though... no getting around that.

That’s been my experience too - those white coatings look great at first, but after a couple Texas hailstorms, I had more bare metal than coating left. The patchy look drove me nuts, and the rust set in way faster than I expected. I ended up going with a radiant barrier when we replaced some panels last year. It was a hassle getting it up there, but honestly, it’s held up way better through storms and the summer heat. Prep work is always the worst part, but skipping it just means more headaches down the line... learned that the hard way.

White coatings always seem like a quick fix, but I’ve seen the same thing - after a couple of bad storms, they just don’t hold up. I manage a few properties around here, and every time someone tries to save a buck with those coatings, we’re back up there patching or replacing panels within a year or two. The radiant barrier is a solid call, especially with the heat we get. It’s a pain to install, but the difference in attic temps is noticeable.

Prep work really is the make-or-break step. I’ve had crews try to rush it, and it always comes back to bite us - either leaks, rust, or just stuff not sticking right. It’s tempting to cut corners when you’re staring down a long day on the roof, but it never pays off. If you’re dealing with older panels, I’ve found it’s worth taking the extra time to clean and prime everything before putting anything new on. Costs a bit more upfront, but way less hassle down the road.

Prep work really is the make-or-break step. I’ve had crews try to rush it, and it always comes back to bite us - either leaks, rust, or just stuff not sticking right.

Totally agree on the prep. I’ve learned the hard way that skipping a thorough cleaning means you’re basically setting up for more repairs later. Sometimes it feels like overkill, but it’s saved me a lot of headaches. White coatings sound great on paper, but in practice, they just don’t last in our weather.