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stormv55
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[#827]

Anyone else annoyed by how fast roof coatings peel off?

Put a fresh coating on my metal roof about two years ago, and it’s already flaking in spots. I followed the directions, cleaned everything, waited for the right weather, all that jazz. It’s like I just can’t win with these coatings - either they don’t last, or they cost a small fortune. Is this just a thing with metal roofs in hot climates, or am I missing something obvious?


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174 replies

singer67

Had the same thing happen on my place in central Texas - metal roof, did all the prep, even splurged on a “premium” coating. Two summers later, it’s peeling like sunburn. I’m convinced these coatings just can’t handle the constant heat and UV. Honestly starting to wonder if it’s even worth redoing or just living with the ugly patches.


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nancy_echo

I hear you - Texas sun is brutal on pretty much everything, but those coatings seem to be especially short-lived. I went through the same cycle: cleaned, primed, paid extra for the “good stuff,” and it still looked rough after a couple years. Honestly, I ended up just letting it go for a while. The patches bugged me at first, but after a bit, I realized it didn’t really affect the function, just the look. If leaks aren’t an issue, sometimes it’s not worth the hassle (or cost) of redoing it every few years. If you do decide to try again, I’ve heard some folks swear by elastomeric coatings, but I’m skeptical they’d last much longer in our heat.


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jennifer_dreamer

Yeah, the Texas sun just eats those coatings for breakfast. I’ve managed a few buildings with flat roofs and honestly, after the third “premium” coating peeled up like old paint, I just started budgeting for spot repairs instead of full recoats. Elastomeric sounds good on paper, but I haven’t seen it hold up much better in real life - maybe an extra year if you’re lucky. At this point, as long as it’s not leaking, I’m not losing sleep over some ugly patches. The cost to keep it pretty just isn’t worth it around here.


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stormv55
stormv55 Topic starter

Not gonna lie, “premium” coatings are starting to feel like a running joke around here. I’m in Arizona, so it’s the same deal - sun just fries everything. I did the prep, used the fancy stuff, and still ended up with flakes and patches after a couple summers. At this point, I’m half convinced the only thing that’d last is painting the roof with SPF 100 sunscreen.

I’ve tried both elastomeric and acrylic, and honestly, neither one lasted more than a few years before looking rough. The cost of keeping it “like new” is wild compared to just touching up the worst spots. I guess if you’re not dealing with leaks or rust, ugly patches are just part of the package. Maybe there’s some secret pro tip out there, but if there is, it’s hiding better than my original roof color under all those layers.


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Man, Arizona roofs really do get the worst of it. I’ve seen coatings that claim “10-year durability” start bubbling after two monsoons and a summer. Ever wonder if the prep instructions are written for, like, Seattle weather? Sometimes I think the only thing that survives is the dust. Have you tried any of those reflective granule coatings, or is it all just hype? I’ve seen mixed results but curious if anyone’s actually had luck with them in this kind of heat.


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jose_runner

Yeah, the Arizona sun just chews up anything you put on a roof. I’ve tried those reflective granule coatings twice now - once on my old rolled roof, and again after we redid it with foam. Both times, I followed the prep steps to the letter (power wash, dry days, all that jazz), but honestly, the results were mixed. The first summer looked great - lower attic temps, no bubbling - but by year two, I started seeing cracks and peeling at the seams. By the third monsoon season, it was back to patching spots every spring.

I do think some of the hype is real, especially for lowering temps inside. Our electric bill dropped a bit the first year, and you could feel the difference in the rooms right under the roof. But the durability claims? Not so much. Those “10-year” promises are a stretch out here unless you’ve got perfect conditions (which, let’s be real, never happens in Phoenix).

One thing I noticed: the north-facing side lasted longer, probably because it gets less direct sun. South and west sides took a beating and started flaking first. I’ve heard some folks swear by double-coating or adding a UV-resistant top layer, but that just sounds like more work (and money) for maybe an extra year or two.

Honestly, I’m starting to think nothing beats plain old maintenance - clean off the dust, check for cracks after every storm, touch up when needed. If there’s a magic bullet for Arizona roofs, I haven’t found it yet... but if anyone has, I’d love to hear about it. For now, I just keep a bucket of elastomeric handy and cross my fingers every July.


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music_tyler1997

If there’s a magic bullet for Arizona roofs, I haven’t found it yet... but if anyone has, I’d love to hear about it.

Honestly, I hear you on the “10-year” claims - Phoenix sun just laughs at those warranties. I’ve seen even the pricier coatings start to give up after a couple summers, especially on the south and west exposures. The north side always holds up better, just like you said. Sometimes I wonder if it’s even worth shelling out for the “premium” stuff when you’re still patching every year.

Have you ever tried any of the silicone-based coatings? I’ve had a few customers swear they last longer than the acrylics, but I’m not totally convinced. They’re pricier up front and can be a pain to re-coat later. Still, might be worth a shot if you’re tired of the elastomeric routine.

Curious - do you get much ponding water after those big monsoon dumps? I’ve noticed that spots where water sits, even for a day or two, seem to peel first no matter what product you use. Wondering if that lines up with what you’re seeing.


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The ponding water is the bane of my existence every August. I swear, even with a slight slope, there’s always a few spots that just won’t drain and those are the first to bubble and peel. I’ve tried both acrylic and silicone - honestly, the silicone held up a bit better but like you said, re-coating is a pain and it gets sticky in the heat. I’m starting to think the only real fix is to move somewhere with clouds.


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richardroberts816

That sticky mess with silicone in the summer is all too familiar. I’ve noticed that even with a “proper” slope, if there’s any low spot - no matter how minor - it just becomes a magnet for standing water and eventual coating failure. Have you ever tried using a leveling compound or adding extra drains? I’m curious if anyone’s had luck with those, or if it just ends up being another maintenance headache. Sometimes I wonder if the substrate type (like metal vs. built-up) makes a difference in how well coatings stick long-term...


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if there’s any low spot - no matter how minor - it just becomes a magnet for standing water and eventual coating failure.

That’s exactly what happened on my place last summer. I’ve got a low-slope roof (not quite flat, but close) with a built-up base, and after the first year I noticed a couple of shallow puddles that just wouldn’t dry out. I tried patching with more silicone, but it just peeled up again after the next heatwave. Super frustrating.

I did end up using a leveling compound in the worst spot, but honestly, it was kind of a pain. The stuff is heavy and awkward to mix, and getting it to feather out smoothly took way longer than I expected. It did help with the standing water, though - at least in that area. The rest of the roof still has some minor dips, but I didn’t bother fixing every single one because it felt like chasing my tail.

As for drains, I thought about adding another scupper, but my roofline doesn’t really allow for it without cutting into the fascia. Didn’t want to open that can of worms unless things got really bad.

About substrate types - I’ve only dealt with built-up so far, but my neighbor has a metal roof and he swears by it for longevity. He said his coating sticks better and lasts longer, probably because metal doesn’t soak up moisture or flex as much as built-up when temps swing. But then again, he paid way more upfront for the metal install.

If I had to do it over again, I’d probably spend more time prepping the surface and maybe even pay someone to do the leveling before putting down any coating. The little shortcuts definitely come back to bite you later... especially when you’re up there in July scraping off gooey silicone with a putty knife.

Anyway, just my two cents from someone who learned the hard way that “good enough” prep isn’t always good enough when it comes to roof coatings.


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walker741643

You’re spot on about prep making all the difference. I see a lot of coating failures during inspections, and it’s almost always tied to poor surface prep or ponding water. Even a tiny dip can turn into a real headache over time. Built-up roofs are especially tricky since they flex and absorb moisture, like you mentioned - metal’s definitely less forgiving upfront cost-wise, but it does seem to hold up better with coatings.

Leveling compounds are a pain to work with, no doubt. I’ve seen folks try to shortcut that step and end up redoing the whole thing a year later. Sometimes it’s worth biting the bullet and getting a pro in for the leveling, just to avoid the cycle of patching and peeling. And yeah, cutting into fascia for another scupper isn’t something I’d recommend unless you’re ready for a bigger project.

It’s wild how much roof performance comes down to those little details most people never see from the ground.


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mechanic48

I see the same thing all the time - people think a coating’s a quick fix, but if there’s even a little standing water or the prep’s half-baked, it’s just a matter of time before it bubbles or peels. I’m always surprised by how often folks skip proper leveling, too. It’s not glamorous work, but it’s what keeps the coating where it belongs. I’ve seen some jobs where the owner tried to patch dips with whatever was handy, and the repair actually made the ponding worse.

Curious if anyone’s had luck with those newer “self-leveling” products? I’m a bit skeptical - seems like they promise a lot, but I haven’t seen one hold up more than a couple seasons around here (Midwest, lots of freeze/thaw). Maybe it’s a climate thing. Or maybe it’s just wishful thinking that there’s a shortcut for proper prep... Has anyone actually seen long-term results with those, or is it just marketing hype?


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bear_artist

- Tried one of those “self-leveling” kits last summer - figured it’d save me a weekend on the ladder. Nope. Looked great for about six months, then the usual cracks and peeling showed up once the snow melted.
- Honestly, I think my wallet took more damage than the roof did.
- Anyone else notice these products seem to cost more but don’t really last longer?
- Wondering if there’s a cheap way to fix minor dips without making them worse... or is that just wishful thinking too?


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journalist14

Those self-leveling kits are tempting, but I’ve never had much luck with them either - especially in places with real winters. Honestly, I think the prep work makes more difference than the product itself. If you don’t get every bit of old gunk off, nothing seems to stick for long. For minor dips, I just use roofing cement and mesh - it’s messy, but it holds up better for me than the fancy stuff. Not pretty, but it gets the job done without draining my bank account every year.


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michaelmountaineer

I get where you’re coming from, but I’ve actually had better luck with the newer self-leveling stuff than the old roofing cement routine. My place gets hammered by snow and ice every year - Midwest winters aren’t kind - and the cement always cracked on me after a season or two. The trick for me was two coats and making sure it was warm enough for the product to cure. Prep is huge, like you said, but I think some of the newer coatings do hold up if you follow the instructions to a T. Not saying they’re perfect, but I don’t miss scraping tar off my hands every spring...


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gaming159

I get what you’re saying about the newer coatings being easier to work with, and yeah, not having to mess with tar is a huge plus. Still, I’ve noticed even the “advanced” self-leveling stuff struggles with thermal cycling - especially in places where temps swing from deep freeze to warm-up in a matter of days. On my flat roof, I tried two different eco-friendly elastomerics over the last five years, prepped like crazy, and both started peeling at the seams after two winters. Maybe it’s just the way our climate beats up on things, but I’m starting to think mechanical solutions (like green roofs or extra insulation layers) might outlast any coating in these conditions. Anyone else gone that route?


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baking317

Maybe it’s just the way our climate beats up on things, but I’m starting to think mechanical solutions (like green roofs or extra insulation layers) might outlast any coating in these conditions.

I hear you on that. I’m in the Midwest, so my roof gets smacked with snow, then a freak 60-degree day, then back to ice - repeat until you lose your mind. I tried one of those “miracle” white coatings a few years back, did all the power-washing and priming, and still ended up with seams peeling like old sunburn after two winters. The sales guy swore it’d last a decade. Yeah, right.

Last year I caved and added a layer of rigid foam insulation under some new membrane. Not cheap, but honestly, it’s holding up way better than any goop I’ve slathered on there. Plus, my upstairs is actually bearable in summer now. Never tried a green roof - my luck, I’d end up growing dandelions and moss instead of anything cool.

If you’ve got the budget and don’t mind a little extra work up front, mechanical fixes seem to take the abuse better in crazy climates like ours. Coatings just feel like a band-aid on a busted pipe sometimes.


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cooper_quantum

You’re definitely not alone in thinking coatings just don’t cut it in places with wild temperature swings. I’ve been through a few different products myself - elastomeric, silicone, even one of those “liquid rubber” types. No matter how carefully I prepped, they all started to bubble or peel after a couple seasons. Midwest weather is brutal on roofs, and honestly, I think most coatings are just outmatched.

Switching to rigid foam and a new membrane was a smart move. I did something similar about five years ago - went with polyiso boards under a TPO membrane. It wasn’t cheap up front, but the difference in both durability and comfort inside the house has been night and day. The initial cost stings, but not having to patch or recoat every other year is worth it.

Green roofs are interesting, but yeah... unless you’re ready for the maintenance, they can turn into more hassle than they’re worth. Around here, mechanical upgrades seem to be the only thing that stands up to the freeze-thaw cycles. Coatings might work in milder climates, but for us, it’s just not realistic long-term.


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Coatings might work in milder climates, but for us, it’s just not realistic long-term.

That’s been my experience too, unfortunately. I bought my place last year and the previous owner had just put down a fresh elastomeric coating. Looked great at first, but after one winter (I’m in northern Illinois), there were already spots where it was bubbling and pulling away at the seams. I followed all the “maintenance” advice, but it honestly felt like a losing battle.

I get why people try coatings - they’re way cheaper up front and seem like a quick fix. But with our freeze-thaw cycles, it’s just not holding up. I’m leaning toward biting the bullet and doing what you did: rigid insulation and a membrane. The upfront cost is intimidating, but patching every year is getting old fast.

Green roofs sound cool in theory, but I can barely keep up with mowing, let alone maintaining a rooftop garden. Maybe if I lived somewhere with less wild weather swings, I’d risk another coating, but here? Not worth the hassle.


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