- Shingles can be a solid choice, especially if you’re in an area where hail or wind isn’t extreme.
- Key thing is installation—seen plenty of “30-year” shingles fail in under 10 when corners get cut.
- Maintenance matters too. Missing tabs or popped nails? That’s when water sneaks in.
- Ventilation is underrated. Poor attic airflow cooks shingles from underneath and shortens lifespan.
- Upfront cost is definitely lower than metal, but over 20-30 years, you might be re-roofing once or even twice, depending on weather and shade.
- Noise with metal is real, but some folks barely notice it after a while.
- In my area (Midwest), I’ve seen well-installed architectural shingles last 25+ years, but I’ve also replaced plenty after 12-15 because of storms or bad installs.
- If you’re planning to stay in the house long-term, it’s worth weighing the total cost over time, not just the initial price tag.
- For resale, a newer shingle roof can be a selling point, but so can metal—it just depends on the neighborhood and buyer expectations.
Bottom line, shingles are “worth it” if you stay on top of maintenance and get a good crew. If you want to set it and forget it for decades, metal might be worth the upfront pain.
That’s a good point about ventilation—honestly, I see more shingle issues from poor attic airflow than anything else. Folks don’t always realize how much heat builds up under there, especially in summer. Curious if anyone’s had luck with those newer ridge vent systems? I’ve seen mixed results, but maybe it depends on the roof pitch or insulation setup. Also, has anyone actually compared their utility bills after switching from shingles to metal? Wondering if the difference is noticeable or just marketing talk...
Curious if anyone’s had luck with those newer ridge vent systems? I’ve seen mixed results, but maybe it depends on the roof pitch or insulation setup.
You’re not wrong about attic airflow being a big deal. I’ve seen a lot of shingle problems that could’ve been avoided if the attic didn’t turn into an oven every summer. Ridge vents are supposed to help, but honestly, I think they’re only as good as the rest of the setup. If you’ve got decent soffit vents and your insulation isn’t blocking airflow, they seem to work better. On low-pitch roofs, though, I’ve noticed they don’t always pull enough air—especially if the attic is packed with old insulation or boxes (which is more common than people admit).
About the metal vs. shingles and utility bills thing—my uncle swapped his old three-tab shingles for a standing seam metal roof last year. He’s in central Texas, so it gets brutal in July and August. He said his AC ran less after the switch, but he also added a radiant barrier at the same time, so it’s hard to say what made the bigger difference. His bills dropped maybe $30-40 a month in peak summer, but that could be a combo of things.
I do think some of the “energy savings” claims get hyped up by sales folks. Metal reflects more heat than dark shingles, sure, but if your attic isn’t ventilated right or you’ve got gaps in your insulation, you’ll still lose cool air fast. It’s all connected.
If you’re thinking about switching materials just for lower bills, I’d check what kind of attic insulation and venting you have first. Sometimes fixing that is cheaper than a whole new roof and gives you more bang for your buck.
And yeah—metal roofs are louder in heavy rain unless you add extra underlayment or have a solid deck underneath. Some people like that sound, though... personal preference.
Hope that helps clear up some of the “marketing talk” vs reality stuff.
That’s a good point about the radiant barrier possibly skewing the results. I’ve always wondered how much of those energy savings are really from the roof material versus just finally getting the attic sealed up right. When I re-roofed a few years back, I focused on adding more blown-in insulation and making sure the soffit vents were clear—honestly, that alone made a noticeable difference in upstairs temps. Has anyone here actually measured attic temps before and after switching to metal or adding ridge vents? I’m curious if there’s real data out there, not just utility bill guesses.
I’ve actually checked attic temps before and after adding ridge vents and swapping to metal on a couple jobs. Honestly, the difference wasn’t as dramatic as some folks expect—maybe 5-8 degrees cooler on a hot day. Most of the real change came from sealing up leaks and boosting insulation, just like you said. Roof material helps some, but it’s not a magic bullet.
