I get the appeal of metal for critter-proofing, but honestly, the cost just doesn’t add up for me. I went with a heavy-duty rubber boot last time—yeah, it’s not perfect, but with a little sealant and checking it each fall, it’s held up fine through Michigan winters. Metal’s great if you want to set it and forget it, but if you’re willing to do a bit of maintenance, rubber or even those newer silicone ones seem like a solid budget option. I’d rather patch than replace the whole thing every few years.
That’s fair—if you’re willing to keep an eye on things, rubber or silicone boots can definitely stretch your dollar. I’ve patched mine a couple times and it’s still holding up. Metal’s nice, but not everyone wants to pay that upfront. Regular checks go a long way.
Metal’s nice, but not everyone wants to pay that upfront. Regular checks go a long way.
That’s pretty much where I landed too. When I bought my place last year, the inspector pointed out the vent boots were already showing age (I’ve got a 90s ranch with a low-ish slope and asphalt shingles, for reference). I priced out replacing them with metal, but honestly, after all the other move-in costs, I just couldn’t justify it right away.
Here’s what I ended up doing:
1. Checked the boots in early spring, since winter here (Ohio) is rough on rubber.
2. Noticed some minor cracking at the base—nothing catastrophic, but enough to worry about leaks once the snow melted.
3. Used a tube of roof sealant to patch the cracks and reinforced the seams. It took maybe 20 minutes per boot.
4. Set a reminder in my phone to check again before fall, since that’s when we get heavy rain.
This past winter, I did get a tiny drip in the attic—turned out the patch had started to peel. I replaced just that one boot with a silicone model (cost about $18), and so far, it’s holding up better than the original rubber.
Honestly, it’s not that much hassle if you’re comfortable getting up on a ladder and keeping an eye out for trouble spots. I get why folks go for metal, but if you’re willing to do a little maintenance, you can really stretch the life of the cheaper boots. Maybe not forever, but enough to spread out the expense.
One thing I wish I’d known: the flashing around the vent matters just as much as the boot itself. If it’s bent or not sitting flush, water will sneak in no matter what material you use. Next time I swap one out, I’m planning to check the whole assembly and maybe upgrade the flashing too.
Curious if anyone’s tried those “universal” retrofit boots? Saw them at the hardware store but wasn’t sure if they’re worth it or just a gimmick.
I’m right there with you on stretching out the life of the original boots. I’ve got a similar setup—mid-90s split-level, asphalt shingles, and a couple of vent boots that were already looking rough when we moved in. I priced out metal too, but the sticker shock was real, especially after all the other “new homeowner” surprises. Regular inspections and some targeted patching have kept things in check for me so far.
The point about flashing is spot on. I learned the hard way that even a brand-new boot won’t do much if the flashing’s warped or not tucked under the shingles right. Last fall, I noticed a small water stain in the guest room ceiling. Turned out the flashing had lifted just enough to let water wick under during heavy rain. I ended up pulling the shingles back and re-seating the flashing—tedious, but it solved the problem.
On the universal retrofit boots: I actually tried one last year when a boot split mid-winter and I didn’t want to mess with pulling shingles in the cold. It was one of those flexible silicone types that clamp around the pipe. Installation was straightforward, and it sealed up fine, but I did notice the fit wasn’t as snug as a proper replacement. It’s held up through a couple freeze-thaw cycles, but I’m keeping an eye on it. My guess is they’re a decent stopgap, but probably not a true long-term fix if your roof gets a lot of weather.
One thing I’d add—if you’re patching cracks with sealant, make sure to check for UV resistance. I used a generic caulk once and it started peeling after just one summer. Switched to a roofing-specific sealant and it’s lasted much longer.
All in all, I think it comes down to how comfortable you are getting up there and doing the checks. If you’re diligent, you can definitely buy yourself some time before shelling out for all-metal upgrades. But yeah, once the boots or flashing start to fail in multiple spots, it’s probably time to bite the bullet and do a full replacement.
Yeah, I hear you on the sticker shock for metal boots—felt like highway robbery when I priced them out last spring. I’m still running with the original rubber ones on my ‘98 ranch, and they’re definitely showing their age. I’ve patched a couple splits with that black roof sealant (the kind that smells like death and sticks to everything), but honestly, it’s just buying me time.
I tried one of those retrofit silicone sleeves too. It worked okay for a season, but after a rough winter, I noticed some seepage around the base. Maybe it’s fine in milder climates, but up here in Michigan, the freeze-thaw cycles seem to chew through anything that isn’t nailed down tight. I’m with you—good as a temporary fix, but not something I’d trust long-term.
Totally agree about flashing being the real culprit half the time. The boots get all the blame, but if the flashing’s bent or not tucked right, water finds its way in no matter what you do. I’ve started checking mine every fall before things ice up... not fun, but better than dealing with ceiling stains later.
