Cracking a window’s never going to cut it if you’re dealing with attic moisture—totally agree there. But I’d push back a bit on blaming just the soffit vents. I’ve seen plenty of jobs where folks install vents but skip baffles or block airflow with insulation. Doesn’t matter how many vents you have if the air can’t actually move through. Step one: check for clear pathways from soffit to ridge. Step two: make sure bathroom fans aren’t dumping humid air up there. Even the fanciest vent setup won’t help if you’re pumping moisture straight into the attic.
Doesn’t matter how many vents you have if the air can’t actually move through.
That’s true, but I’d add that sometimes the vent sizing itself is off, even with clear pathways. I’ve seen new builds where the ridge vent is undersized for the attic volume. Even perfect airflow from soffit to ridge won’t help if the exit point can’t keep up. Maybe it’s not just about blockages or fans—sometimes it’s just a math problem.
I get what you’re saying about vent sizing, but I’m not sure it’s always just a numbers game. Around here (humid summers, cold winters), I’ve seen attics with “proper” ridge and soffit vent ratios still get hot spots or moisture issues. Sometimes it’s the insulation, sometimes baffles are missing or crushed, or the roof design itself creates dead zones where air just doesn’t flow. The math matters, but the way everything’s put together seems just as critical in the real world.
That’s a good point—just hitting the right vent ratio on paper doesn’t always mean it works out in practice. I’ve had similar problems with my place (also humid summers, cold winters).
—I’ve noticed that too, especially with complicated rooflines or valleys. Have you ever tried using those attic fans or solar-powered vents to help move air in tricky spots, or do you think that just masks the real problem?“the roof design itself creates dead zones where air just doesn’t flow”
