- Ice dams got worse for me after adding more vents, but only because I hadn’t sealed up the attic floor first. Warm air was leaking up, snow melted, then froze at the eaves.
- Venting’s good, but if you don’t air-seal first, you’re just pulling more heat out and making the problem worse.
- I’ve seen some folks overdo it with ridge and soffit vents, thinking more is always better... not always true if the rest isn’t tight.
- Quick tip: smoke pencil or incense stick can help find those sneaky leaks around lights and attic hatches.
- In my experience, balance is key—seal up leaks, then vent. Otherwise, you’re just chasing your tail.
Had a job last winter where the homeowner was convinced more attic vents would solve his ice dam issues. We added a bunch, but the ice dams actually got worse. Turns out, there were gaps around the can lights and the attic hatch—warm air was just pouring up. Once we sealed those up with some spray foam and weatherstripping, things finally settled down. Venting’s important, but if you skip air-sealing, you’re just moving the problem around. It’s never just about more vents... it’s about the whole system working together.
- Preach. I see folks think more vents = magic fix, but it’s like putting more doors on a leaky boat—still gonna get wet.
- Air leaks around lights, hatches, even bathroom fans... those are the real troublemakers.
- Had a builder once swear by “venting everything.” Next winter? Icicles like swords. Turns out, insulation gaps everywhere.
- It’s always a combo: seal first, then vent right. Otherwise, you’re just giving warm air a faster exit ramp to your roof.
It’s always a combo: seal first, then vent right. Otherwise, you’re just giving warm air a faster exit ramp to your roof.
That’s the part that gets overlooked way too often. I’ve been on jobs where the attic looked like Swiss cheese—can lights, bathroom fans, even the tiniest gaps around plumbing stacks. Folks think slapping in more vents will solve everything, but if you’ve got air leaks, all you’re doing is helping your heat escape faster. It’s like opening all your windows in winter and then wondering why your furnace never shuts off.
I’ll admit, when I first started out, I figured more airflow had to be better. Then I saw what happens when insulation isn’t continuous or gets compressed around trusses—suddenly you’ve got frost on the nails and those monster icicles hanging off the eaves. Not a good look, and definitely not fun to fix after the fact.
One thing I’ve noticed is people underestimate how much air can sneak through those “minor” spots. Even a small gap around a recessed light can move a surprising amount of warm, moist air into the attic. Multiply that by a dozen fixtures and you’ve got a recipe for condensation and mold.
I do think there’s a balance, though. In some older homes, especially up here in the north, you can seal everything up so tight that you end up with stale air and moisture problems inside. That’s where controlled ventilation comes in—bath fans on timers, HRVs, that sort of thing. But yeah, just adding more roof vents without dealing with the leaks and insulation gaps first is like putting a turbo on a rusty old car. You might go faster, but you’re still headed for trouble.
Curious if anyone’s tried those new LED retrofit kits that claim to be airtight? I’ve seen mixed results, but maybe someone’s had better luck.
- Totally agree about the “Swiss cheese” attics—seen way too many of those in my buildings.
- Sealing up those little gaps makes a huge difference, especially with energy bills.
- I’ve had mixed luck with the so-called airtight LED kits too. Some seem better than others, but I still end up caulking around them just to be safe.
- You nailed it on balance—too tight and you get stale air, too loose and you’re heating the outdoors.
- It’s a constant juggling act, especially in older places where nothing is square or standard... but worth it when you see fewer ice dams and lower utility costs.
