- I totally get the math headache on this.
- I ran a similar calculation—break-even was way further out than I hoped, especially factoring in the weird Midwest weather swings.
- Yearly repair budget feels predictable, but I’m not wild about being up on the roof every spring either. One bad slip and it’s ER time...
- The rubber shingles do seem to handle wind better, at least from what neighbors say. But if you’re patching now and it’s just a couple tabs here and there, might be worth squeezing a few more years out of your current setup.
- If you go the repair route, maybe invest in better sealant or wind-resistant tabs? That helped me cut down on repeat blow-offs last year.
I hear you on the roof repairs—one wrong step and suddenly you’re starring in your own ER episode. Midwest weather is brutal on shingles, but I’ve seen folks get a few extra years just by swapping out the worst tabs and using a beefier sealant. Rubber shingles are tempting, but if your current roof isn’t leaking yet, milking it for another season or two isn’t the worst idea. Just don’t skip checking the flashing... that’s where most of my “surprise leaks” calls come from.
I’ve always wondered if it’s worth just patching up the worst spots or if that ends up costing more in the long run. I swapped out a handful of shingles last fall, but I’m not sure if I should’ve just bit the bullet and done a bigger section. Anyone ever regret waiting too long before doing a full replacement? Also, how do you spot bad flashing before it’s a problem? I feel like mine always looks “fine” until it suddenly isn’t.
Spotting bad flashing before it leaks can be tricky since surface rust or slight gaps aren’t always obvious. I’ve seen plenty of folks patch shingles for years, but water finds its way in eventually, especially around chimneys or valleys. Sometimes a full section replacement saves you headaches down the line, but it’s not always necessary if the rest is solid. Checking for soft spots or lifting near the flashing helps—if you see any, that’s usually a red flag.
Fish scales is exactly how my neighbor described it when I was up there last fall, trying to figure out why my ceiling had a weird brown spot. I’ll admit, I thought I could just slap some caulk around the chimney and call it a day, but nope—water’s sneakier than my kids hiding Halloween candy.
I get what you’re saying about patching versus replacing. My wallet definitely prefers the patch route, but after chasing leaks for two years, I’m starting to think the “rip out a whole section” approach might actually be cheaper in the long run. Especially since every time I patch one spot, another one pops up like whack-a-mole.
I did notice some soft spots near the flashing last time—felt a little squishy underfoot, which can’t be good. But here’s my question: is there a way to tell if it’s just the plywood under there getting old, or if it’s really the flashing letting water in? I don’t want to tear off half my roof if it’s just a small fix, but I also don’t want to end up with mushrooms growing in my attic (again...long story).
Also, anyone else have issues with those “step” flashings around chimneys? Mine look fine from the ground, but up close they’re rusted and kind of bent. Is that an automatic replace situation, or can you get away with cleaning them up and hitting them with some sealant?
I’m in Michigan, so we get all four seasons of roof punishment—ice dams in winter, thunderstorms in summer. Not sure if that makes things worse or if I’m just unlucky. Either way, I’d rather spend money on pizza than on roofers if I can help it...
