Leftover shingles are a total gamble, I hear you. I’ve seen folks try to patch with those old, brittle pieces and it just ends up looking patchy—or worse, leaks again after the first storm. Color matching is a headache too, especially with sun-faded roofs. I’m with you on the checkups, though. I’ve caught a couple of flashing issues early just by poking around up there. Not fun, but way cheaper than dealing with water damage later. My knees complain too, but my wallet’s happier for it.
I’ve seen folks try to patch with those old, brittle pieces and it just ends up looking patchy—or worse, leaks again after the first storm.
That’s a familiar sight. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve seen “quick fixes” with leftover shingles turn into bigger headaches. The color mismatch is one thing, but the real issue is how those old shingles just don’t seal right anymore. Once they’ve been sitting in a garage for a few years, they’re usually too stiff to lay flat, and that’s just asking for wind to get under them.
I’m curious—when you’re checking your roof, do you focus more on the shingles themselves, or do you spend time looking at the flashing and vents? In my experience, most leaks I find aren’t actually from missing shingles but from flashing that’s pulled away or sealant that’s dried up. Especially around chimneys and skylights. I’ve even seen some pretty gnarly rot under what looked like perfectly fine shingles, just because the flashing was letting water in underneath.
I get what you mean about the knees. Crawling around up there isn’t exactly my idea of a good time either, but it’s wild how much you can catch early. I usually tell people to check after big storms, even if nothing looks wrong from the ground. Sometimes you’ll spot a popped nail or a shingle that’s just starting to curl up.
One thing I’ve wondered—has anyone tried using those newer synthetic underlayments when patching? I’ve heard they hold up better than felt, but I haven’t seen enough long-term results to say for sure. Would love to know if it actually makes a difference with patch jobs, or if it’s just marketing.
Anyway, I’d rather deal with a sore back than a ceiling stain. Water damage is a pain to fix and never seems to show up in an obvious spot. Anyone else notice that leaks always seem to travel before they show up inside? Makes tracking them down a bit of a guessing game sometimes...
I get where you’re coming from about old shingles, but I’ve actually had a couple patch jobs hold up surprisingly well—maybe just got lucky with the weather and the way they sealed. I do agree, though, flashing is usually the sneaky culprit. Still, I wouldn’t write off shingle patches entirely if you’re in a pinch and can seal them right. As for synthetic underlayment, I’ve used it a few times and it does seem tougher, but I wonder if it really matters much for small repairs versus a full re-roof. Anyone else notice it’s slick as heck to walk on? That part makes me nervous...
Anyone else notice it’s slick as heck to walk on? That part makes me nervous...
- Yep, synthetic underlayment is like an ice rink when it’s damp. I nearly did the splits up there once—definitely not OSHA-approved ballet.
- For small repairs, I’m with you: the underlayment type doesn’t seem to matter much unless you’re dealing with a chronic leak or super old decking.
- Flashing’s always the sneaky leak source, but I’ve seen shingle patches last years if you seal ‘em right and the weather’s kind.
- If you’re thinking green, some synthetics are recyclable, but honestly, for a patch, I’d just use what’s handy and safe to walk on.
I get the convenience angle, but I’ve actually had issues with shingle patches not holding up long-term, especially on older roofs. Even a small leak can spread fast under synthetic underlayment if it’s not sealed perfectly. Sometimes it’s worth swapping out a bigger section.
