Had a similar situation a couple years back—patched up three spots where the flashing was pulling away after a nasty windstorm. Figured I’d just keep an eye on it, like you said, and save the big spend for later. Honestly, it held up better than I expected, but I did end up replacing the whole run last fall when another section started leaking. In hindsight, I probably squeezed an extra year or two out of it by patching, but yeah... always felt like I was tempting fate every time it rained hard. Sometimes those quick fixes buy you time, sometimes they just add to the worry.
That’s pretty much how it went for me, too. I patched a couple spots where the flashing was pulling up after a storm—used some roofing cement and screws, figured I’d just monitor it. It did hold for a while, but I was always a bit uneasy during heavy rain. I get the temptation to stretch things out, especially with how expensive full replacements can get.
One thing I noticed: once the aluminum starts pulling away or gets creased, it never really sits flush again, no matter how much sealant you use. Water always seems to find its way in eventually. I’m in a colder climate, so freeze-thaw cycles probably didn’t help either. In hindsight, I might’ve saved myself some stress (and drywall repairs) by just biting the bullet earlier.
Curious if anyone’s tried switching to a different material for flashing? I’ve heard copper lasts longer but costs a fortune. Aluminum’s easy to work with, but maybe not the best for long-term peace of mind...
Quick Fix or Redo: Dealing with Damaged Aluminum Flashing
Had a nearly identical situation last year—aluminum flashing started pulling up after a nasty windstorm. I tried the patch-and-pray method, too. Roofing cement, a few screws, and I figured it’d get me through another season. It did, technically, but every time we had heavy rain or a thaw/freeze cycle, I was checking the ceiling for stains. Never really felt confident it was sealed up.
I’m in the Midwest, so we get those wild temperature swings. Once that aluminum gets bent or creased, it’s like trying to flatten out a soda can—never quite goes back to how it was. I ended up with water sneaking in behind the flashing and had to replace some insulation and drywall in the spring. Not fun.
Switched over to galvanized steel flashing when I finally did the repair right. It’s not as fancy as copper (and definitely not as pricey), but it’s sturdier than aluminum and seems to handle the weather better here. Bit harder to work with—takes more effort to cut and bend—but once it’s in place, it stays put. Haven’t had any issues since.
Copper looks great and lasts forever, but yeah... the price is wild. If you’re not in a historic home or somewhere that really calls for it, steel seems like a good middle ground. Aluminum’s fine for quick fixes or mild climates, but if you’re dealing with snow and ice every year, I’d go with something tougher.
One thing I wish I’d done sooner: check the attic after storms instead of waiting for stains on the ceiling. Caught a couple small leaks early that way before they turned into bigger headaches.
Anyway, just my two cents from messing around on my own roof more than I’d like to admit...
That’s super helpful, thanks for breaking down your experience. I’m new to all this and honestly, the thought of replacing flashing kind of freaks me out. Did you end up doing the steel install yourself, or did you hire it out? If you did it solo, any tools or steps you’d recommend for someone who’s never tackled more than caulking a window?
Yeah, replacing flashing can look scarier than it actually is—especially if the only thing you’ve tackled before is a tube of caulk and a prayer. I did my first steel flashing install myself, and honestly, the hardest part was convincing myself I wouldn’t fall off the roof or slice a finger off with the snips. Spoiler: still got all ten.
If you’re jumping in solo, a good pair of tin snips is non-negotiable. Don’t cheap out there. You’ll also want a pry bar for lifting shingles (gently—unless you like buying new ones), and a hammer for those roofing nails. Oh, and gloves. Trust me, steel edges are like angry cats.
The trickiest bit for me was getting the bends right so water actually runs off instead of sneaking behind. I watched way too many YouTube videos and still managed to mess up my first piece... but hey, that’s what scrap bins are for. Take your time measuring and dry-fit everything before nailing it down.
If you’re nervous about leaks, flashing tape under the metal gives some peace of mind. Just don’t expect it to fix everything if the metal’s not tucked right.
It’s not rocket science, but it’s definitely more than just caulking a window. If you’re careful and patient, it’s doable—even if your only previous experience is fighting with stubborn window trim.
