Funny timing—just noticed a couple spots where my aluminum flashing looked rough after the last freeze. I’ve always wondered if I’m overthinking it, since the stuff’s been up for at least 7 years with barely any TLC. Have you ever tried patching with that butyl tape instead of caulk? I’m tempted, since cutting in new flashing is such a pain, but I don’t want to just kick the can down the road... Any luck with patches holding up through wet springs?
- Seven years is a solid run for aluminum flashing, especially with little maintenance.
- Butyl tape can be a decent patch-up—I've used it on a few gutter seams and around a vent, and it survived two soggy springs in the Midwest.
- If the damage isn't too deep or widespread, it's worth a shot. Just make sure the area’s clean and dry before sticking it down.
- Not as pretty as new flashing, but way easier than wrestling with metal up there...
- Worst case, you get another season or two out of it while you plan a bigger fix. Sometimes that’s all you really need.
- Agreed, seven years without much upkeep is honestly better than I expected for aluminum.
- Butyl tape worked for me on a downspout joint—held up through a couple freeze-thaw cycles, which surprised me.
- Prep matters. If there’s any old caulk or grime, it won’t stick and you’re back to square one after the first rain.
- Not the prettiest, but if you’re watching costs, it’s a decent stopgap.
- I’d keep an eye on it after storms... sometimes the tape peels if water gets underneath.
- For bigger holes or if water’s already gotten in, I’d probably just budget for a full section replacement next dry spell.
Seven years out of aluminum flashing without major issues is actually pretty solid, especially if you’re in an area with a lot of freeze-thaw cycles. I’ve seen plenty of installations start to show their age much sooner, especially if the original install skipped on prep or used the wrong sealant. Butyl tape can be a real lifesaver for small leaks or joints—definitely not the prettiest, but it’s surprisingly resilient if you get the surface clean and dry first. I’ve come across repairs where folks just slapped it over old caulk or dirt, and sure enough, it peeled right off after a couple storms.
One thing I’d add: even with good prep, butyl tape is really just a temporary fix. It’ll buy you some time, but once water gets underneath or the tape starts to lose its grip, you’re back to square one. I usually tell people to check those spots after heavy rain or wind, just in case. If you’re seeing bigger holes or any sign that water’s already gotten behind the flashing, replacement is usually the safer bet. Water trapped behind aluminum can lead to rot in the sheathing or framing underneath—seen that more than once on inspections.
If budget’s tight, patching makes sense for now, but I’d keep an eye out for any signs of moisture inside (like staining or musty smells). Sometimes what looks like a small exterior issue turns into a bigger headache down the line if water finds its way in. For what it’s worth, I’ve had clients stretch these kinds of repairs for a season or two before biting the bullet on a full section replacement. Just depends how much risk you’re comfortable with.
All in all, sounds like you’re taking a pretty practical approach—just don’t let those “temporary” fixes become permanent ones by accident.
- Seven years is decent, but I’ve seen flashing fail in three when installers cut corners.
- Butyl tape’s a band-aid—fine for a season, but it always lets go eventually, especially with sun exposure.
- If you’re patching, I’d check for hidden mold or rot every few months. Once water sneaks in, it’s a pain to stop.
- Personally, I’d lean toward a proper redo if you see any swelling or soft spots in the sheathing. Temporary fixes have a way of becoming permanent... and then you’re stuck.
- Not a fan of aluminum for long-term in wet climates—copper or steel lasts way longer, but yeah, costs more upfront.
