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Quick fix or redo: dealing with damaged aluminum flashing

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Posts: 11
(@aquantum79)
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Good points about nails, but honestly, aluminum flashing can be tricky. I've seen nails loosen over time, especially with temperature swings causing expansion and contraction. Screws can help with that, but you're right—overtightening is a real issue. Maybe the key is using screws with neoprene washers or something similar to allow slight movement without leaks? Either way, regular checks and proper sealing seem just as important as the fasteners themselves...


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Posts: 14
(@drodriguez81)
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I've had pretty good luck with screws and neoprene washers myself. My garage flashing used to pop nails like popcorn every winter, drove me nuts... swapped in screws with washers, and two winters later, still holding strong. Regular checks still a must though, like you said.


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Posts: 15
(@writing_breeze)
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I've done the screws and neoprene washers too, and they've held up pretty well overall. But honestly, if the flashing is already pretty beat up or bent, sometimes it's better to just bite the bullet and replace that section entirely. Did that on my porch after patching it twice—finally got fed up. Took a couple hours, but now I don't have to worry about it every winter. Just something to consider if you're tired of checking it all the time...


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cecho14
Posts: 17
(@cecho14)
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Yeah, replacing the flashing entirely can definitely be the better move sometimes. I know exactly what you mean about patching and re-patching—it gets old fast. I had a similar situation with the flashing around my chimney. First I tried caulking, then screws and washers, and it held up okay for a season or two. But eventually, every big storm had me nervously checking the attic for leaks again.

Finally decided to just pull the old flashing off and redo it properly. It wasn't as complicated as I'd feared. If you're thinking about tackling it yourself, here's roughly how it went for me:

- First, remove the old flashing carefully. Mine was pretty mangled, so I used a pry bar and hammer to gently lift it away from the siding and shingles. Take your time here to avoid damaging anything else.
- Next, clean up the area underneath. I found some rot starting on the wood beneath, so I replaced that section of sheathing while I was at it.
- Then, measure and cut your new aluminum flashing. I used tin snips—easy enough to handle and pretty precise. Don't forget to wear gloves, though; those edges get sharp.
- After cutting, shape the flashing to fit snugly against the surface. This part took some patience, but once you get the hang of it, it's straightforward.
- Secure it with roofing nails or screws and neoprene washers (like you've already done before). I also used a bit of roofing sealant under the edges for extra insurance.
- Finally, double-check everything and make sure water will flow away from the seams and joints. A quick spray-down with the hose helps verify there are no obvious leaks.

Honestly, it took me about half a day, and I'm no pro. But the peace of mind afterward was totally worth it. Haven't had to climb up there worried about leaks since. Sounds like you're already halfway there with your previous fixes, so I'm betting you could handle this no problem.


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Posts: 8
(@geek_holly4169)
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Did you find it tricky getting the new flashing shaped just right around corners or odd angles? That's always been the part that slows me down... curious if you ran into any snags there.


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