I get the appeal of stainless for coastal spots, but honestly, I’ve had decent luck just sticking with aluminum and using a good quality paint-on coating. It’s way easier to work with, and if you seal up the edges and joints right, it seems to hold up for several years even with salt in the air. The coated aluminum stuff isn’t perfect, but it’s a lot less hassle than wrestling with stainless, especially if you’re not doing a huge run. I’d rather replace a piece every 7-8 years than fight with stainless every time I need to make a tweak. Maybe not the “forever” solution, but it’s a solid middle ground.
I’d rather replace a piece every 7-8 years than fight with stainless every time I need to make a tweak.
I get what you’re saying about aluminum being easier to work with. I’ve done both, and honestly, stainless is a pain to cut and bend unless you have the right tools. What’s worked for me on damaged aluminum flashing is:
1. Clean the area well, get rid of any loose corrosion.
2. Hit it with a rust converter if there’s any pitting.
3. Use a high-quality paint-on coating, especially on the seams and edges.
If the piece is really mangled, I just swap it out. Like you said, it’s not “forever,” but it holds up fine if you keep up with the coating every few years. I’m on the coast too, and haven’t had major issues. Stainless is overkill for most spots unless you’re right on the water.
If the piece is really mangled, I just swap it out. Like you said, it’s not “forever,” but it holds up fine if you keep up with the coating every few years.
That’s a solid approach, especially in coastal areas where corrosion is always lurking. Aluminum’s definitely more forgiving if you need to make on-the-fly adjustments—no contest there. I’ve seen plenty of jobs where folks went all-in on stainless, thinking it’d be a “set it and forget it” solution, but then they’re cursing when it’s time to cut or bend for a repair. Unless you’re right up against salt spray every day, aluminum with a good maintenance routine is usually more than enough.
I’d just add—sometimes people skip the prep and slap on a patch or coating, but like you said, cleaning and treating any pitting first makes a huge difference in how long it lasts. I’ve had a few clients surprised their “quick fix” held up a decade just because they took the time to do that extra step. Stainless has its place, but for most roofs, you’re not missing out by sticking with aluminum and keeping an eye on it every few years.
- Agree with swapping out if it’s really mangled—sometimes it’s just not worth patching.
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“Aluminum’s definitely more forgiving if you need to make on-the-fly adjustments—no contest there.”
100%—cutting or bending stainless on site is a pain, and you don’t always have the right tools handy.
- Seen a few “quick fixes” last way longer than expected too, as long as the prep was solid. Cleaning up the corroded spots before coating seems tedious, but it pays off.
- Stainless looks good on paper, but unless you’re right on the water, aluminum’s usually more practical. Maintenance is key, like you said.
- Don’t be afraid to redo a section if it’s really bad, but you’re not losing out by sticking with aluminum and keeping up with coatings.
I’ve wondered about this too—my flashing’s got a couple of dings, but nothing major. Is it really worth replacing a whole section if it’s just a bit bent? I did a patch last fall and it’s holding up, but I’m not sure how long that’ll last. Prepping the area was a pain, but I guess it beats water getting in. Anyone else notice aluminum gets these weird white spots if you don’t seal it up right?
