Learned that lesson after a “good enough” patch job led to a full tear-off two years later... not fun.
Been there, too. Sometimes I think I’m being overly cautious, but every time I’ve left a questionable board, it’s come back to haunt me—especially after a heavy storm rolls through. I’m with you on the moisture meter; I used to trust my nose and a screwdriver poke, but those meters catch stuff you’d miss otherwise. Still, I’ll admit I’ve kept some old-growth planks with a little flex if they’re dry and solid underneath. Not everything has to be new, but anything even hinting at rot is just a future leak waiting to happen.
Not everything has to be new, but anything even hinting at rot is just a future leak waiting to happen.
That’s the truth—rot’s like that one guest who shows up uninvited and never leaves. I’ve had my share of “it’ll probably hold” moments, especially with those old cedar planks you just don’t see anymore. Sometimes I’ll keep ‘em if they’re still solid, but yeah, anything soft or crumbly gets the boot.
I do get a little obsessive with the moisture meter, though. Maybe it’s overkill, but after one too many green roof installs where hidden damp spots turned into mini-mushroom farms... let’s just say I trust the numbers more than my nose now. Still, I’ll admit there’s some charm in those old boards—if they’re dry and not splitting, they can outlast a lot of new lumber. But if there’s any doubt? Out they go.
Funny how much time you can spend poking around for that one bad spot while the rest of the crew is ready to roll out underlayment. Always feels like a game of “find the ticking time bomb.”
I’ve run into that same dilemma with old boards—sometimes they look rough but are still solid, and other times they hide just enough rot to cause headaches later. I’ve started using a screwdriver to poke around, especially near fasteners and seams. Ever had a spot that looked fine on top but was mush underneath? That’s burned me before. I’m curious, do you ever seal up older boards if they pass the moisture test, or is it always replace if there’s any doubt?
I’ve definitely had those spots where the top looks fine, but you poke through and it’s like wet cardboard underneath. The screwdriver trick is a must, especially around valleys and eaves—those seem to hide the worst surprises. If a board passes the moisture test and feels solid, I’ll sometimes seal it up with a good primer or wood hardener, but only if it’s minor surface stuff. Anything soft or punky gets replaced, no question. I’ve seen too many callbacks from “good enough” decking that turned out not to be.
Curious if you check for delamination too? I’ve run into a couple of older plywood decks where the layers started peeling apart even though the surface felt okay. That’s a whole different headache...
Delamination’s a sneaky one for sure. I’ve seen plywood that looked fine until you started walking it, then you’d feel that weird give underfoot—never a good sign. I’ll tap around with the handle of my hammer and listen for hollow spots, especially near old leaks or where water might’ve pooled. If the layers are starting to separate, I don’t mess around trying to patch it. Like you said, callbacks aren’t worth it. Better to bite the bullet and swap out the bad sheets before moving on.