I’ve definitely been there with the “looks fine until you touch it” kind of gear. That little bit of wobble can be sneaky, especially on stuff that’s supposed to spin fast. I once picked up a used angle grinder from a guy who swore it was “barely used.” Gave it a quick spin and the whole thing rattled like a shopping cart with a busted wheel. Turns out, the previous owner probably tried to cut through rebar or something equally ambitious.
Your point about awkward sellers is spot on too. Some folks just aren’t great at selling, but that doesn’t mean they’re trying to pull a fast one. I’ve had more than one seller nearly talk me out of buying their own item just because they were so nervous or kept apologizing for every scratch.
If I had to break down my routine, it’s basically:
1) Give everything a shake (if it shouldn’t move, it better not move).
2) Check for weird smells—burnt electronics have that “uh oh” scent.
3) Listen for anything that sounds like loose change in a dryer.
4) If possible, plug it in or power it up. If the seller hesitates, that’s usually my cue to walk away.
I’ll admit, sometimes I get lazy and skip steps if I’m in a rush... which is exactly how I ended up with a jigsaw that only cuts left. Live and learn, right?
Anyway, your approach makes sense and honestly, you’re probably saving yourself headaches down the road by being thorough. It’s easy to get caught up in the excitement of finding a deal and forget to check the basics. The more you do it, the better your gut gets at spotting trouble before you hand over cash.
Spotting wear and tear on used gear: my quick routine
That “jigsaw that only cuts left” line got me. Been there—bought a drill once that sounded fine, but the chuck wobbled like crazy under load. My checklist’s similar, but I’ll add:
- If it’s battery powered, I always check the charger too. Learned the hard way—dead charger = expensive paperweight.
- I’m with you on the seller hesitation. If they won’t let me plug it in, I’m out.
- Sometimes I’ll bring a scrap piece of wood or metal to test with, just to see if it actually does the job.
Honestly, I trust my nose more than my eyes half the time... burnt smell = nope.
That burnt smell tip is spot on—smells can tell you a lot that a quick look-over won’t. I’ve run into that with old circular saws more than once. I’ll add, I always check for play in the bearings or bushings. I’ll grab the tool and gently wiggle the main moving part—blade, chuck, whatever. If there’s any side-to-side movement, that’s usually a sign it’s been run hard or dropped. Not a dealbreaker every time, but it’s a red flag for me.
I’m a stickler for checking cords, too. I’ve seen a lot of electrical tape “fixes” hiding cracked insulation or even exposed wires. If I see that, I usually pass unless I’m up for a project.
One thing I do a little differently—I’ll sometimes ask to open up the battery compartment or access panel if it’s easy. Corrosion or rust in there is a bad sign, especially if the tool’s been stored in a damp garage.
Funny enough, I’ve had sellers get annoyed when I do all this, but I’d rather be thorough than end up with a lemon.
I get what you mean about sellers getting annoyed. I had a guy roll his eyes at me when I started checking the trigger action on a used drill—turned out it stuck halfway, so I dodged a bullet there. I’m with you on the battery compartment too. I’ve seen so much green gunk in those, especially after rainy seasons. Ever had luck cleaning up corroded contacts, or is that pretty much game over in your experience? I’ve tried vinegar and a toothbrush, but it’s hit or miss.
I’ve run into that green corrosion plenty, especially on older cordless tools we keep for quick jobs. Honestly, I’ve had mixed results with cleaning. Vinegar and a toothbrush can work if it’s just a light layer, but once the contacts are pitted or the corrosion has eaten away at the metal, it’s usually not worth the effort. Sometimes I’ll try a pencil eraser for mild buildup, but if the battery still doesn’t make a solid connection, I just call it a loss.
One trick I picked up is using a little baking soda paste after the vinegar to neutralize any leftover acid—seems to help prevent it from coming back as fast, though it’s not a miracle fix. For anything really caked on, replacement parts are usually the only way to get reliable performance again. It’s frustrating, especially when the rest of the tool looks fine... but I guess that’s the gamble with used gear.