Not sure I totally buy that the marine sprays are just overpriced WD-40—some of ’em have legit inhibitors mixed in. I get what you’re saying about cost though. For small stuff, I’ve actually had better luck swapping to stainless hardware where I can, even if it costs a bit more up front. The touch-up paint trick is clutch, though... I do the same thing with my tools.
I hear you on the marine sprays—some of them really do have extra inhibitors, but I’m still a bit skeptical about how much better they are long-term, especially for the price. Stainless hardware’s been a game changer for me too, though I’ve noticed even that can get some surface rust if you’re right on the coast. Touch-up paint is underrated... I’ve started using it on my ladder hinges and even the heads of fasteners. It’s not perfect, but it definitely slows things down.
I’ve tried a bunch of those marine sprays too, and honestly, I’m with you—some work for a bit, but nothing’s really bulletproof. Even stainless will get those little orange spots if you’re right by the salt air. I started using clear nail polish on screw heads after touch-up paint, just for an extra layer... sounds silly but it actually helps.
Nail polish on screw heads—now that’s a trick I haven’t seen since my aunt tried to waterproof her mailbox. Honestly, nothing’s totally rust-proof near the ocean, but I’ve had decent luck with lanolin-based sprays. They smell weird, but they seem to last a bit longer than the usual stuff. Stainless is great until it isn’t... those orange freckles show up no matter what. I’ve even seen folks swap out hardware for plastic or coated fasteners in the worst spots. Not pretty, but hey, less rust.
I get the appeal of lanolin sprays—they do seem to slow things down a bit, but I’ve always found them a hassle to reapply, especially in spots that are hard to reach once everything’s installed. Plus, if you’ve got pets or kids around, that residue can be a magnet for dirt and sand.
I’ll throw out another angle: a lot of folks assume “stainless” means maintenance-free, but there’s a big difference between grades. Around salt air, 304 stainless will pit and stain pretty quickly. If you really want to avoid those orange freckles, 316 stainless holds up much better—though it’s pricier and not always easy to source at the hardware store. Galvanized fasteners are hit or miss too; once the coating gets scratched or wears down, rust creeps in fast.
Plastic and coated fasteners definitely don’t look great, but in hidden spots (like behind trim or under eaves), they’re not a bad compromise. I’ve seen some clients use composite deck screws where appearance isn’t critical, and those seem to last longer than most metal options near the coast.
One thing I wouldn’t recommend is mixing metals—like using stainless screws with aluminum flashing. That’ll just speed up corrosion because of galvanic reactions. It’s one of those details people overlook until things start failing sooner than expected.
In my experience, no single product is a magic bullet. The best results come from a combination of good materials, regular cleaning (rinsing off salt spray), and replacing anything that starts to show early signs of trouble. It’s kind of a never-ending battle if you’re right on the water, honestly...
